Gee restaurant is for gourmet

The discerning foodies of North Oxford have long held chef Jamie King in high regard and it is a matter of some satisfaction to all — to those who so far know of it, at any rate — that he is now to be found in what might seem his natural home, in charge of the kitchen at Gee’s.

Jamie’s introduction to the local restaurant scene was at Branca, to which he moved as opening chef in 2000 after working as sous chef under the legendary Henry Harris at the “absolutely fabulous” Fifth Floor Restaurant in Harvey Nichols department store in Lon-don. As it happens, Branca too was soon to become another mecca for ladies who lunch, though this isn’t to say that chaps didn’t like it too.

Jamie and his wife Charlotte were later to gain more fans in North Oxford when they moved in 2006 — after a spell at the Star Inn at Sulgrave, near Banbury — to become tenants of the Anchor in Hayfield Road, always remembered by people of my generation as Dolly’s Hut. Here Jamie’s reputation was for properly sourced, seasonal food, with lively taste combinations.

Its quality was recognised in recommendations in both the Good Food Guide and the Michelin Guide. There was much sadness among customers when Jamie announced in April 2013: “We’re calling it a day.” He wouldn’t go into details, but the tenancy deal with the brewery was judged to be behind his troubles.

Jamie moved late last year to Gee’s — after a spell catering for the upmarket conference trade at Ditchley Park. “I was just in time for Christmas,” he tells me. “A baptism by fire!”

In between meeting customers’ demands, however, and developing the esprit de corps of his kitchen team, he has found time to put a personal stamp on the menu, which is broadly approved by punters, to judge by online reviews.

Gee’s has always, of course, exerted a powerful appeal on account of its decor. The conservatory building (HW Moore, 1898) spent the first 85 years of its life as home to a plant and agricultural shop. It was fashioned into a restaurant by Jeremy Mogford, the founder of Brown’s, who bought it in 1984.

A half-million-pound renovation completed two years ago made a good thing even better. This is certainly true of the entrance area and bar where Rosemarie and I spent the first ten minutes on a recent visit, enjoying glasses of the crisp house champagne (Veuve Deloynes — who said Madame Clicquot was the only widow of fizz?) and a chat with general manager Rebecca Mofford.

Moving through into the rest-aurant, we were settled at a corner table from which could be surveyed the animated scene laid before us, a restaurant at full buzz. To the table very short- ly were delivered a number of app-etisers in the shape of Noccelara de Bellice olives — bright green beauties that always delight — and juicy padron peppers. Aware that I was in, Jamie also sent through a portion of his aubergine falafel, with harissa yoghurt, preserved lemons, and feta. Superb!

No less so was my starter proper, which was grilled squid with salsa verde. This gave a lively combination of flavours, with a melt-in-the-mouth texture to the squid, not something usually found with this cephalopod mollusc.

Rosemarie chose one of the two pizzettas on offer, topped with smoked salmon, crème fraîche and sprigs of dill. She was delighted with this, but slightly less so with the main-course burger that followed, even though she enjoyed it. Her niggle concerned the texture of the (excellent) meat, as she explained later in a chat with Jamie. Finely minced and closely compacted, it had the look and ‘bite’ of that found in a beef patty. She likes spongier, rougher meat. Tomato relish, grilled bun, melted cheese and big golden chips (especially) were all approved.

Capital Gee: Rosemarie's pizzetta

For my main course, I decided to confound readers who complain I “always have fish”. Actually, with the exception of tuna, which I don’t much like, fish was oddly absent from the menu, so my choice of rabbit was rather made for me. At any rate, once I had excluded the two veggie dishes (roast cauliflower, caper and raisin salad, and wild mushroom, spinach and ricotta cannelloni), the chicken and the various grills, including a six-bone rack of lamb and a 22oz sirloin. Meat eaters, please apply!

The wisdom of my choice was at once apparent in the appearance of the dish; its taste was wonderful. The rabbit meat, including a boned thigh filled with a chicken mousse, featured the flavours of apricot, thyme and garlic. With it came chickpeas, pancetta and mustard sauce.

Lemon tart with crème fraîche completed Rosemarie’s meal. Actually not quite, for she shared a little of my cheese, which included the excellent Cropwell Bishop and pungent, Port Salut-like Isle of Avalon.

Throughout the meal, we drank fresh, flowery Spanish white wine (Quintaluna, 2013). Afterwards, with Jamie, we drank just a little more, round the corner at the Rose and Crown pub, another North Oxford institution.

Restaurant 
Gee’s, 61 Banbury Road, Oxford 
01856 553540 gees-restaurant.co.uk

Opening times: Full menu served Monday to Friday, noon-10.30pm; Saturday and Sunday, brunch 10-11.45am, full menu noon-10.30pm.
Parking: Free in adjacent Canterbury Road, plus three-hour meters opposite in Norham Road.
Key personnel: Owner Jeremy Mogford; general manager  Rebecca Mofford, senior restaurant manager Nong Smitinand; head chef Jamie King.
Make sure you try the... Braised pig cheeks with celeriac mash (£6.85), grilled squid with salsa verde (£7.50), rabbit with cavolo nero, chickpeas and pancetta, mustard sauce (£16.95), Gee’s burger, tomato relish, chips (£13.50), grilled tuna with peperonato (£17.50), butter-nut squash, sage and Gorgonzola risotto (£14), lemon tart with crème fraiche (£7), selection of English cheeses (£8.50).
In ten words: New chef Jamie makes his mark at stylish city favourite.