Why Carluccio is the pasta master

Most books that detail the history of pasta state it comes in more than 300 different shapes, whereas Antonio Carluccio, the master of Italian cookery, claims there are at least 600 different shapes. As he has been lovingly making, cooking and eating pasta for more than 70 years (if you accept that it was the first solid he was given as a four-month-old baby) I am inclined to accept his findings.

Having written 18 books on Italian cooking, each of which has mentioned pasta, Antonio has acquired an except-ional pasta knowledge over the years. He is known as the Godfather of Italian cuisine and recognised as Italy’s greatest food ambassador.

His latest book, Pasta: by Antonio Carluccio (Quadrille Publishing – £20) containing loads of new pasta recipes and many variations on the classics has just been launched. It is an inspiring publication worthy of any kitchen library. Antonio will be signing copies in Bicester Village at 1pm on Thursday, June 12, as part of his Festa Della Pasta month-long event that takes in all his food shops and will highlight new pasta shapes that are now becoming available. His aim is to introduce us to a whole new world of pasta shapes that now include colourful, multi-shaped, gluten free, wholemeal, flavoured, extra-long and short pastas, so that there is some-thing new for even the most experienced pasta lover. There’s Pannocchie, for example, pictured below right, which is perfect for thick sauces, whether meat ragu or vegetable. On inspecting its shape it is easy to see why Pannocchie takes its name from corn on the cob, and why it will be perfect with a thick sauce that will be sucked into its twists and turns. To quote Antonio: “The smoother the pasta the thinner the sauce, the more convoluted the pasta shape, or the rougher the outside of the pasta the thicker the sauce.”

Linguine a Strisce, pictured left, is a children’s favourite as it’s a fun rainbow pasta, coloured with spices and vegetables such as sweet paprika, beetroot, spinach and turmeric. Unlike many coloured pastas, it retains its colour when cooked.

Antonio’s new book contains 100 recipes that match the pasta with a sauce that suits its shape. Thanks to the superb photographs by Laura Edwards, the reader is also taken through the steps necessary when making and shaping fresh pasta, which may take time to prepare, but is an eminently satisfying task. Shaping hand-rolled dough is fun, you can even create your own variations on the classic shapes.

There’s a pasta code too: how much pasta do we cook? Is it just a matter of throwing a handful for each person into the pot of boiling water? No. For small starter portions you need to allow 50 grams of dried pasta or 90 grams of fresh. For normal portions for a lunch with salad about 70-80 grams of dried and 100-110 grams of fresh pasta is needed, though much depends on the pasta’s quality and its shape. The saucepan must be large and the amount of salted water it contains generous, to allow the pasta sufficient space to move as the water boils. Antonio says he’s often asked how to test the pasta for the al dente finish. Most Italians like it with a light resistance to the tooth. If cooked for too long, pasta becomes slightly indigestible, producing a feeling of weight in the stomach.

The joy of Antonio’s s book is that it embraces both his love of pasta and his food philosophy, which is to cook with the minimum of fuss to produce the maximum of flavour using good simple ingredients. Unlike many other chefs who tend to write complex recipes that call for countless ingredients, his recipes really are simple, some containing just four ingredients. But the main thing is that his enthusiasm for pasta is infectious.

It is no wonder that he was presented the Commendatore Award in 1998 for his knowledge, enthusiasm and lifetime’s service to the Italian food industry. He also received the OBE nine years later and over the years has made numerous popular television series.