Pulling the strings

THERE is no truth in the rumour, current in the restaurant business

and among the trend conscious punters of Glasgow's West End that

entrepreneurial restauranteur, disco crinkly, and interior design guru

Ron McCulloch is about to open the most expensive restaurant in town.

Fresh back from Dublin where he put together a nightclub called The

Pod, he is simply about to open a new restaurant which, depending on the

kind of friends you take to dinner and what they order, could cost you

just a shade less than #30 per skull for three courses (excluding wine)

according to a sample menu Mr Ron produced at his Cul-de-Sac nosherie in

Ashton Lane where he contented himself with a humble crepe.

Apart from his internationally known design company McCulloch is a

well known innovator on the Glasgow scene. As a disco owner he led the

campaign against the city's dance mania curfew, lost, and now amuses

himself with the knowledge that the publicity was enough to remind his

customers to get out of the pub in time to get into the discos. He does

not own any pubs -- wise man.

But even his bank manager was a mite surprised to learn that he

intended to go into the a la carte restaurant scene. To which he simply

says: ''Why not. If there is sight of the end of the recession, its time

to get people back out again.'' And, he no doubt hopes, into his latest

creation.

The Puppet Theatre, as the new enterprise is called, opens tonight

after many months on the design and planning board. If you want to join

the trendsetters of the post-yuppie era dial 041 339 8444 to book and,

get yourself round to 11 Ruthven Lane in Hillhead.

The location is the building formerly occupied by P.J.'s -- which was

reduced to a shell before work began to transform it into what the

sketches suggest will be an exciting interior.

The most noticeable external element is a conservatory -- designed by

Jim McMahon of McCulloch's own design outfit in what is described as

''Gaudiesque style'' -- which has been built over the patio area.

The interior of the 75-seater eaterie is quite small, split up into

separate dining areas by immoveable walls and pillars, now with its

horizons expanded by the judicious use of mirrors.

Apart from the glassed-in area, a large part of the cellarage is

behind a wrought-iron screen at ground level. One room features an altar

style wall complete with candles and draped muslin. A splendid gothic

style table has been purchased to create another space for 18 diners,

and there is a grandly draped and upholstered caboose for canoodling a

deux.If there is one design problem it will be parking the Lamborghini.

The Puppet Theatre kitchen brigade is headed by chef Douglas Painter

who trained at the Glasgow College of Food Technology. He spent four

years at the old Fountain and five at The Buttery where he became head

chef.

Interesting sounding interpretations from venison sausage with an

apple and redcurrant chutney to marinated seared beef and calves' liver

are to be found on the sample menu which makes much use of Scottish

produce where possible.

The restaurant's name comes from an organisation which once occupied

the premises which now house the McCulloch empire's HQ in Otago Street.

At one time he'd toyed with the idea of a restaurant of that name on

the site which would have been cantilevered out over the River Kelvin.

The planning department thought not.

''Eating out,'' says McCulloch, ''is my way of socialising and Glasgow

seems limited. I know what I like and I'd like the Puppet Theatre with

its idea of quality without formality''.