St Andrews and

north-east Fife,

steeped in history,

have many newer

attractions to suit

every taste, reports

Lorn Macintyre

SPRINGTIME in St Andrews, and in the famous ice-cream parlours of

Luvians and Jannettas a score of flavours are being laid out in the

chilled counters. The fulmars are back on the great east window above

the 31 ruined altars of the medieval cathedral. In the shaded peace of

St Mary's College the crocuses are out. The visitors are coming.

In The Kingdom by the Sea, Paul Theroux called St Andrews ''one of the

most beautiful towns on the coast''. The quads and lawns of Scotland's

oldest university are at the heart of its appeal, but the town nearly

lost the gown. In the late seventeenth century it was proposed to

transfer the university to Perth because St Andrews had become ''only a

village, where most part farmers dwell, the whole streets are filled

with dunghills, which are exceedingly noisome . . . '' Even as late as

1827 St Andrews was being described as ''the ghost of a fine city''.

But within years the Victorians arrived, for sea bathing and some

golf. Hotels and boarding-houses were built. In the early 1890s St

Andrews University had fewer than 200 students, all male. Now there are

around 4000 of both sexes. The tourist trade benefits from their

presence, since student residences are let out to visitors at reasonable

rates throughout the summer. In the superb new hall at North Haugh the

facilities are en suite.

The castle on the sea's edge dates mainly from the sixteenth century,

though there was a much older one on the site. A tableau lets the

spectator feel the agony of the martyr George Wishart, burnt at the

stake for his beliefs.

The first written reference to golf at St Andrews came in 1457, the

date of James II of Scotland's ban; golf interfered with the practice of

archery, and so indirectly was seen as a threat to the nation's

defences.

Since then few arrows, but untold numbers of balls, have crossed the

Links, driven by amateurs as well as the elect. This is as hallowed

ground as the cathedral once was.

Now, to play the Old Course (#40, #50 after May 1) you need luck even

before you put on your golf shoes. You lodge names, clubs, and handicaps

for the 2pm draw, then phone after 4pm to see if you are successful. If

you aren't, there are five other 18-hole courses, costing between #14

and #25 to play from May 1. Youngsters can putt.

You never know whom you will encounter on holiday at St Andrews. One

summer I was walking past the 18th hole of the Old Course when I saw a

moustached man in white knickerbockers and two-tone golf shoes lying

painting on the turf. A passer-by informed me: ''That's LeRoy Neiman,

the most famous artist in America.''

I got into conversation with him. ''I came here to paint one of the

great scenes,'' he told me, pointing to the R & A Clubhouse with a long

cigar. ''That building's got the proportions of the White House.'' How

much did he expect to get for the painting? ''Well now, I've still to

put golfers in it, one at the first hole, another at the 18th. Balls

will be flying about. I'll get $125,000 for this one.''

St Andrews is famous for its eating houses. In College Street outside

Brambles, the affable white-aproned Paul is waiting to cook the fresh

fish that has got him into the food guides. The Vine Leaf Restaurant,

and Parklands Restaurant in Kinburn Castle Hotel, are worth ringing to

see if there is a table.

But you will have to get in touch with the Peat Inn outside St Andrews

even before your holiday begins to make sure that David Wilson, doyen of

Scottish chefs, has space to feed you his exquisite dishes.

Crail and Cellardyke are coastal villages of crow-stepped gables and

tiled roofs, to be visited with the camcorder and camera. Anstruther has

the Scottish Fisheries Museum, with its memorial room to Scots fishermen

lost at sea.

Craigtoun Country Park was laid out around Mount Melville House, the

former mansion of the Melville family. The Dutch village and boating

pond are a calming experience on a summer afternoon for querulous

children and tired parents.

No visit to St Andrews is complete without going to the Byre. This

small theatre was founded in a cowshed in the 1930s. The late A. B.

Paterson worked tirelessly to get it a new building and an international

reputation. The Crawford Centre in South Street is also a focus for the

arts.

St Andrews Tourist Office has a wide range of information on

accommodation, events, and places of interest in the town and north-east

Fife. Write to 70 Market Street, St Andrews, KY16 9NU, or telephone 0334

72021.