Plain sailing As a family holiday, cruising has covered a lot of ground in recent years, says Mary Docherty

After a few moments of lacklustre bargaining, I drifted off to inspect the other stalls lining the main street of the picturesque village of Sidi bou Said just outside Tunis.

With its white painted buildings, blue-framed windows and doors and picturesque narrow streets, it's been an inspirational place for writers and artists for centuries.

But thoughts of aesthetic achievement were soon cut short by a voice pleading in my ear: "OK, give me 20". The chess set again. "Fifteen then, fifteen, " he persisted as I backed away.

Later, I spotted another trader offering identical chess sets. "For you. Special price.

One euro."

Tunisia is a halfway house between uptight Europe and the colourful Arab influences of North Africa. The Romans took control of it 2000 years ago and left us the magnificent baths overlooking the Bay of Tunis which keep the tourists flocking in. In the nineteenth century it came under French rule and they imposed their language and Catholicism on the country, Since independence, however, the Tunisians have reestablished their own Arabspeaking culture, at once proud of their heritage and totally at ease with their European neighbours.

Tunisia was the first stop on a cruise of the Mediterranean on board P&O's Ocean Village. Billing itself as the ship for people who don't do cruises, it offers more than the usual raft of excursions in ports of call. If touring ruins or seeking out shopping and beaches aren't on your list of holiday musts, then there are sporting activities, such as scuba diving or guided cycle rides, to keep you occupied.

You could combine activity with natural spectacle by climbing Mount Vesuvius, the sleeping volcano which dominates Naples and the surrounding countryside. The experts say it will erupt again, and it is steaming quietly at the moment, releasing puffs of vapour in its centre to remind us that its fiery heart lies only five miles, rather than the usual 25, under the crust of the earth.

Perhaps if the inhabitants of Pompeii had seen it close up in 79AD, they would have realised how fragile their existence really was. Indeed, the town's reincarnation is hardly less vulnerable.

As with all ancient sites, the authorities are now coming up against the classic problems of the expense of excavation and reinstatement, and the battle to prevent tourism eroding the site, yet still giving the public as much access as possible.

One house has been fully restored by a group of unpaid archaeology students, but isn't open to the public because of fears that too much human traffic could quickly reduce it to rubble again. We could only gaze at its splendour from outside the gate, glimpsing its exquisite architecture and courtyard full of fresh green plants that would have made Charlie Dimmock proud.

Most people visiting Pompeii are taken aback by its sheer size. It was a large, thriving harbour town on a highly fertile plain with a range of mountains at its back that kept its river full. It's also worth bearing in mind that the eruption from Vesuvius that enveloped it released 100,000 times as much energy as the nuclear bomb at Hiroshima.

But while Pompeii is large, Florence is noted for its compactness. They probably didn't do it deliberately, but the ancient Florentines built the perfect tourist attraction in terms of manageability. The Duomo, the Uffizi, Michaelangelo's David, the Ponte Vecchio and the Santa Croce are all within easy walking distance of each other. A short visit can be only a taster, an invitation to come back for a longer stay to live and breathe in the atmosphere of one of the world's most flagrantly beautiful cities.

Nearby Pisa, with its Field of Miracles, offers the chance to walk past tourists stretching out their arms in seemingly weird poses. If you think there's nothing new on earth, this is the place to prove it.

Everyone - but everyone - has the same idea of being photographed while seeming to prop up the leaning tower. Has no-one told them that it isn't sinking any more?

And that it was a British engineer who was responsible for fixing it. Seemingly the soil is too soggy for a building of that weight.

What most pictures of the tower fail to convey is its sheer beauty. It's famous not only because it leans, but also because it's a magnificent structure. Built as a bell tower, the subtle colours of its stones complement the fine intricacy of its plasterwork.

There are restrictions on the number of people allowed to climb to the top, so book a place early. The views are sensational.

Next day, our luck ran out.

Torrential rain and forked lightning meant that a stop in Monte Carlo was out of the question because it was too dangerous to launch the tenders that carry passengers to shore. It was the gamblers I felt sorry for. They'd been faithfully attending Ocean Village's classes in poker and blackjack, in preparation for an assault on the casino at Monte Carlo.

After all, if you're going to win, you might as well do it big time.

Alas, the ties that are de rigueur for getting into one of the world's most celebrated gambling dens had to be folded away for another day.

Menorca, the ship's final stop, was more forgiving. Its glorious climate and clean beaches are perfect for topping up a tan, and its unspoilt town centre has the kind of shops that yield the absolute best in holiday souvenirs.

How to get there

Ocean Village sails from Palma to Tunis, Rome, Cannes, Barcelona and Ibiza on the Tapas and Togas trip. Frescoes and Frescati visits Tunis, Naples, Florence and Pisa, Monte Carlo and Menorca.

Fourteen night cruises and Stay and Cruise are available. Action ashore includes abseiling, white water rafting, jeep safaris, sailing and bike rides. Seven night cruises start from pounds -599.

Visit www. oceanvillageholidays. co. uk or 0845 358 5000.

Glasgow flights are available.

Ship shape

FOOD as far as the eye can see for 24 hours a day. A basketball court, a driving range for golf, a football pitch, a cinema and access to MSN. What more could teenagers want from a holiday? Probably to wake in a different Mediterranean port each day, the chance to buy a "Rolex" from a street trader and the relative freedom that a ship allows.

This wide-ranging appeal is why cruising has covered such a lot of ground in recent years. From being the pastime of the old, it has gained a well-earned reputation in the mainstream sector as a value for money family holiday.

The most stressful decision will no doubt be which of the four Ocean Village restaurants to eat in. Dining is open and informal and, even with 1800 passengers on board, it never seems crowded.

For lots of choice and a casual atmosphere, Plantations is the best bet. In the Waterfront, the menu is similar, but the ambience is slightly more formal.

La Luna, where you can eat in the open air, offers a change of pace, and for the "wow" factor, go to the Bistro, run by celebrity chef James Martin.

It's probably the destination of choice for anyone using the babysitting service, which runs until 3am.

After dinner, adjourn to one of the eight bars and enjoy a Mediterranean sunset. If you've any energy left, try the Marquee, where the entertainment troupe puts on spectacular acrobatic shows, and there's also cabaret, live bands and stand-up comedy.

Alternatively, hone your gambling skills in the casino.

The Bayside Nightclub will let you dance till dawn, and watching the sun rise over the Mediterranean can often be even more exciting than the sunset.