TWO SISTERS East Haugh House, Pitlochry 01796 473 121

Style: Stylish and comforting

Food: Scottish and seasonal

Price: GBP34.95 for three courses and coffee

Wheelchair access: Yes

WHEN it comes to decor, it's quite hard to do tasteful Scottish, let alone tasteful hunting, shooting and fishing Scottish. You often end up with the kind of design that would be perfect for the set of Brigadoon or a Scottish-themed hotel in Las Vegas - gaudy and unbearably twee.

East Haugh House, just a couple of miles south of Pitlochry, is different. The obligatory tartan home furnishings are there, but the palette is in muted greys. There are even fishing trophies and wallpaper with hunting illustrations in the snug, but amazingly all the decoration manages to be tasteful, modern and resolutely welcoming. Thankfully, the owners' love of fishing and hunting doesn't just stop at the decor and their passion has made its way on to the menu of the Two Sisters, the more formal of the hotel's two restaurants. Dishes are all heavily influenced by seasonal ingredients from the local larder and it's obvious that the chef, Neil McGown - who also runs the hotel with his fantastically kind wife Lesley - is a committed foodie.

The menu is an ideological vegetarian's idea of hell and a meat-lover's idea of heaven. There isn't much that's local and that flies, swims or runs that isn't here, from duckling and partridge to wild mountain hare, salmon and smoked venison.

After an amuse-bouche, I've opted for the warm Craigellachie smoked salmon served on a crispy bed of rosti, while my husband has chosen the scallops wrapped in pancetta. The flavours are exquisite and the textures beautiful. The pancetta isn't too salty and the scallops are fresh and plump. Warming the salmon has brought out its smokiness and I scoff the accompanying homemade rolls.

To follow, I've chosen Aberdeen Angus fillet on top of black pudding - Stornoway of course - while my companion has the roe deer. The first few minutes after our dishes arrive are spent communicating in guttural sounds, we're so enthralled with our choice. Both our meats are beautifully tender and full of taste. Thankfully, the person who took our order - one of the two sisters who gave their name to the restaurant - didn't come up with some ridiculous remark about it not being legal when I asked for my steak blue, so it's just the way I like it. As for the roe deer, it just melts in the mouth. Both dishes come with al dente sauteed vegetables and Dauphinoise potatoes. There's hardly room for pudding, but I manage a plate of cheese while Stuart goes for the sticky toffee pudding.

We both agree that these are the best dinners we've had this year. The three-course meal costs GBP34.95 per person. Considering the quality of produce and the fantastically high standard of cooking, it's amazingly good value. The service has been absolutely faultless, and my husband still goes on about the fact that the owners' daughter recommended a bottle of wine to accompany our main course that was GBP10 cheaper than the one we had originally chosen ourselves.

After we commented on the quality of the food, the McGowns told us that customers come from far and wide to sample their game - so much so that they organise a gourmet game night every winter. This year, it will be held on Friday, November 24, and tickets cost GBP49.95 for six courses.

And why go home when you can digest your meal over a good malt and some homemade chocolates on the terrace of the turreted house or in the snug, before retreating to one of the 13 beautiful bedrooms. All are named after a fishing fly, and the East Haugh has a four-poster bed, a double-ended spa bath and a working fireplace. Perfect for a romantic weekend away from the daily trudge.

ALSO RECOMMENDED: GREAT GAME

INDIA QUAY 181 Finnieston Street, Glasgow 0141 221 1616 Style: Modern Food: Indian Price: GBP15 for two courses; wine from GBP9 Wheelchair access: Yes Rather unusually for an Indian restaurant, this stylish venue with views of the spectacular Clyde Arc has put game on the menu. Dishes include pheasant pakora and venison bhaji.

HALDANES 13b Dundas Street, Edinburgh 0131 556 8407 Style: Romantic Food: Scottish Price: GBP35-GBP65 for three courses; wine from GBP18 Wheelchair access: No A meal at Haldanes has to be one of Edinburgh's most exclusive dining experiences. The menu is full of the very best Scottish produce, including west coast seafood, lamb, wood pigeon and game. The beef is legendary and the choice of Islay malts will delight connoisseurs.