Katherine MacAlister is full of praise for Acanthus and its chefs after she enjoyed three world-beating courses for only £15

It is such an unlikely scenario, my recommendation for lunch at The Randolph. But not only do I urge you to go, I insist.

And yes, your memory does serve you right, I did dislike it last time I went. But that was before the fire, and the refurb and the redesign, and the new menu and new chefs, before the pelmets were pulled down and the carpets pulled up, before the new bar was added at the back, now accessible from the main street, before the kitchen was made open plan and you could look out of the windows, before it was renamed Acanthus, but more importantly, before the delicious food became much more affordable.

So I can’t recommend it highly enough.

I almost feel like I need a bit of a drum roll to announce this but I ate there last week and enjoyed three perfect courses for £15.

The food was absolutely spot on, not too fancy or pretentious and, with a discretionary service charge, I was left with change from £20.

With most fixed price menus, you usually get the cheapest and simplest things on the menu; a poor man’s meal in every sense, the good food and cooking being reserved for those willing to pay more.

This is certainly not the case at The Randolph.

Each dish is not only prepared with lavish eloquence but no expense is spared nor attention to detail. Of the three courses for example, each arrived on a different plate, the first a dark earthenware, the second a chintzy blue and white, pudding on a contemporary white offering.

The dining room is as historic as before, but more amenable and welcoming, a more light, airy space than the claustrophobic dark, muted decor of yesteryear, but still feels special and exciting, somewhere to be and be seen.

We ordered the heirloom tomato, basil and mozzarella gallette with an olive tapenade dressing which came as a puff pastry tart, beautifully fragile and buttery, accompanied by the strong oily Mediterranean taste of the olive puree, the plump sweetness of the tomatoes and the soft chewy mozzarella, the ingredients speaking for themselves.

Then the John Ross smoked haddock and chive risotto, in my case without the poached hen egg, but no less delicious for it, the soft flaky fish, smooth, light, silky-smooth sauce unrecognisable from the stodgy risottos sometimes endured, and perfectly seasonal and summery to boot.

My guest swerved on to the main menu for his Randolph fish pie (£12.50) unable to resist the lure of the wonderfully creamy sauce, with crisp potato topping, which came simply in a bubbling ramekin with a serving of spring broccoli. Something far too easy to get wrong, this being one to shout about.

Both the strawberry Eton mess and the chocolate fondant, salted caramel and chocolate sauce were attempted for the third course, but nothing had prepared us for the dignified, lavish and stylish deserts that appeared in front of us.

The fondant (£7) was again from the main menu, but a masterpiece of tastes, and textures, from the chocolate crumb to the soft sponge, the oozing chocolate and the brittle toffee.

My Eton mess had just the right mix of the right consistency and concoction of home-baked sticky, chewy meringues, ripe strawberries, thick tasty cream, combining to thicken my arteries with pleasure.

So there we are, an utter success, and a place I can’t wait to revisit, the irony not being lost on me, that having vowed never to return, they now can’t get rid of me.

Acanthus, The MacDonald Randolph Hotel, Beaumont Street, Oxford
0344 879 9132