Marc West says hip, cool Amsterdam deserves a new look

Amsterdam has long since shaken off its insalubrious image and now discerning modern grand tourists indulge in more wholesome vices – mainly caffeine, culture and cutting-edge creativity.

Yes, the infamous red light district is still a neon blot on the night sky and the smoking of certain substances tolerated, savoured even. But, this has always been an evolving metropolis and it’s currently enjoying a rebrand – with its welcoming citizens keen to share the heady cocktail of boutique hotels, high-end restaurants and world-leading Dutch design.

With its many multicultural ‘hoods all having their own unique colour and character, it’s picture-perfect to the point of cliché; but the point of clichés is they’re true. And its compact cobbled layout is a (day)dream for the aimless flaneur as there’s endlessly something to treat the eyes with every turn, leaving you hopelessly, yet wonderfully ‘lost’.

This is, no doubt, one of the world’s great walking cities. But, if you really want to get around like a local, hop on a rentable two-wheeled stead – Vanmoof’s customised creations are sheer perfection. In fact, cycling is such a part of the national culture that bicycles have right of way, so always watch your step for the ‘whispering death’.

Their sheer number would easily give Oxford and, these days, Beijing a run for their money. And their distinctive bells – along with those of the chiming trams – soundtrack the city in the same way a certain lingering aroma also arouses the senses.

The nine streets that straddle the famous four canals form a ring around the heart of the city like sparkling pearl necklaces – and provide the perfect stomping ground for fashionistas. Those with a sharp eye for detail and hunter-gatherer mentality loud their designer wardrobes and furnish their elegant 16th-century townhouses with loot from the charming avenues of Jordaan, where you’ll definitely hit your 10,000 steps a day, zig-zagging between almost every type of shop imaginable. And, remember, a coffee shop may not be exactly what you expected!

But, after all that high-end retail therapy, you’ll no doubt be in need of refuelling. Great coffee and (of course) even better beer is in abundance on every corner – evoking that quintessential Continental cafe scene.

However, as with any city that embraces the alternative, it’s on the edges where the sparks really fly.

Open-air markets – such as one the full length of Albert Cuypstraat – peddle vintage clothing, beautiful bouquets and retro prints. From stamppot to snert (Google them), street food is king and bars spilling out canal-side – such as the wonderfully ramshackle Hannekes Boom – enjoy a last hurrah before bright summer dimly shimmers into a long dark fall.

For culture vultures, an afternoon in Museumplein is essential. A clutch of internationally renowned institutions cluster around this tree-lined green and pleasant space – with the real gem being the imposing Reiksmuseum.

Since 1885, it’s been the nation’s treasure trove, proudly displaying more than 8,000 objects and works from a grand company of Golden Age artists such as Hals, Vermeer and, of course, Rembrandt – the city’s most famous son who draws the selfie crowds in their droves.

However, there’s no better demonstration of how this powerful port upon the Amstel combines its glittering past with a rebellious contemporary edginess than at Moko’s thought-provoking Banksy/Warhol exhibition and at nearby gallery, Foam – currently hosting a solo show by Chinese political artist/activist Ai Weiwei.

With an emphasis on family, friends and good food, Amsterdam scores a perfect 10 on the good things in life. The city blurs the boundaries between live, work and play.

This lighted-hearted, free-thinking approach (to pretty much everything) has seen modern Dutch masters forging forward as a global tastemakers – taking on the 21st century with a young head on old shoulders.

Its clean, safe, laid-back... and very easy to have a good time – in every sense.

It’s the perfect weekend getaway, but there’s little chance you’ll have had your fill after just 48 hours – as it’s easy to fall in love with the “Venice of the North”. Just like the much-revered Danes who cherish anything cosy and convivial, the Dutch are also on to something special – and I wonder if ‘gezelligheid’ could very soon become the new ‘hygge’?

The Essentials:

Get there:

Fly to Amsterdam from Heathrow with The Netherlands’ national airline KLM to Schiphol Airport.

The journey takes just under one hour and costs from as little as £95 return.

With the addition of a direct Eurostar service from London St Pancras due to be introduced next year, there’s simply no excuse to not visit Europe’s most diverse destination.

For more details on offers and deals from KLM go to klm.com

Where to stay:

The vibrant eastside district of leafy Oosterpark is home to newly opened design-led hostel, Generator – a former zoological university building featuring a chill-out lounge in the old lecture hall.

Private en-suite rooms – with Tom Dixon furniture, anglepoise lamps and organic toiletries – cost from €85/night. But, being only a few minutes gentle stroll across the neighbouring park and onto the area’s beating heart Javastraat you’ll have little time for a bed-in. generatorhostels.com

Explore:

Bookable in advance, City Card lets you experience all the city has to offer – with free entry to major attractions, unlimited public transport and a canal cruise. See iamsterdam.com

More information:

To plan your trip to Amsterdam, go to iamsterdam.com