Heading down to Kingston town

When I received an invitation to visit Kingston, one question immediately entered my head: which Kingston?

Was it the one in Jamaica? In which case I’d have to turn it down very reluctantly. Or maybe it’s Kingston upon Hull? which I’d turn down far less reluctantly.

Turns out it was Kingston upon Thames, a place that’s never really appeared on my radar before. I’d always figured that if you’re heading for a weekend break that close to London, you might as well go the whole hog and stay in the capital itself, rather than one of its leafy suburbs.

But after two glorious summer days in this bustling yet picturesque part of Surrey, I’ve changed my opinion.

It’s the best of both worlds. A wonderful historic riverside location, good restaurants and bars, a great atmosphere and retail therapy opportunities galore. And just half an hour away from London if you can’t resist a trip to the Smoke.

We were staying at Chase Lodge in Hampton Wick, a five-minute walk away from the town centre. This 200-year-old former magistrate’s house has just nine rooms, each individually designed, and ours resembled a Bedouin tent – albeit it with a giant TV and an en suite bathroom containing a Jacuzzi. The antidote to identikit hotel bedrooms, Chase Lodge has personality and is sure to put a smile on your face.

The first thing on our itinerary was a boat trip to Hampton Court Palace with Turks Launches, setting off from Turks Pier. There’s something special about travelling by water, with the sun beating down on you and a cold beer in your hand. It’s the best way to watch the world go by.

You’ll have to keep your envy levels under control as you pass some of the stunning riverside properties en route to Henry VIII’s old stomping ground.

Our visit coincided with the annual Kingston Food Festival, which takes over the Market Place and fills it with sounds and amazing smells.

We took part in a blind wine tasting, which was as far away from any elitist notions of it as you could get. A mix of restaurateurs and wine merchants and others took it in turns to promote their choice.

Our favourite by a country mile was a wine made from silver birch – not a grape in sight. I felt educated, enlightened and not a little inebriated by the end of it.

The next day, we took advantage of the weekly Sunday morning historic walking tour, which thankfully set off at the very civilised time of 11am. Our guide, David, walked and talked us through hundreds of years of Kingston history, its heroes and villains, its buildings, bridges and Saxon kings that were crowned there, giving it its name. Up to seven monarchs were crowned on the Coronation Stone, which is a pretty impressive record for a lump of rock. Fascinating, the tour makes you look at the everyday in a new light.

The rest of our itinerary was pretty food heavy. As a result, we’d had a deliberately light breakfast ahead of our three-course lunch at Jamie’s Italian.

Helped by the friendliest waitress I’ve ever encountered, we negotiated our way through some delicious food – particularly the sweet-and-sour duck crostini and the trout with mussels, both from the specials board.

It’s a lovely restaurant, and a great space for a relaxing meal. We finished by sharing a beautifully light orange blossom polenta cake and a tiramisu martini before heading off to my next culinary adventure.

I had agreed to take part in the Extreme Food Challenge as part of the food festival and I let myself down. I was eliminated in round two after failing to finish my chilli, meaning I didn’t get to experience the joys of squirrel, frogs legs, testicles and water beetles. Oh well.

That evening, after a leisurely walk along the riverside – which was packed with boaters and others enjoying a lovely August evening – we made our way to that rarest of beasts, a German restaurant, Steins. Steins is great fun and ideal if you’re thirsty for German beer and pork products.

We ploughed our way through an enormous schnitzel, sausages and the best potato salad I’ve ever eaten (apart from my mum’s) while sitting outside watching the world go by along the Thames.

Obviously the weather helped, but Kingston strikes me as the sort of place I could quite easily live. And when you get those sort of daydreams, it’s a sure indication that you’ve had a great trip.

Definitely one to return to.

THE FACTS

For more information on Kingston upon Thames, go to www.kingstonfirst.co.uk or call 020 8547 1221.

Rooms at Chase Lodge start from £85 for two. Go to www.chaselodgehotel.com or call 020 8943 1862.

Steins: 020 8546 2411 or go to www.stein-s.com/kingston

Jamie’s Italian: Call 020 3326 4300 or go to www.jamieoliver.com/italian/restaurants/kingston

A river cruise to Hampton Court with Turk Cruises starts from £6.10 per adult or £4.10 per child for a single and £7.60 per adult or £5.60 per child return. www.turks.co.uk or call 020 8546 2434.

Kingston Guided Walking Tour. Go to www.kingstontourguides.org.uk. All walks are £5 per person.

Kingston’s Food Festival runs every summer. Details of next year’s event will be announced on kingstonfoodfestival.com