Tim Hughes gets a taste for ‘Midtown’

As one of London’s most luxurious hotels, one might expect a splash of splendour at the Rosewood.

One thing you might not expect, however, is a hip gathering of local food producers selling their wares in the five-star hotel’s jaw-dropping belle époque courtyard. Colourful stalls selling honey from London bees, produce grown on West End roof gardens, fresh bread, blue cheeses, smoked meats, rich organic ale and unpasteurised milk jostle for attention beneath the ornate arches and baroque flourishes of this grand palace, tucked away through a torch-lit gateway off High Holborn.

The Sunday Slow Food & Living Market – the Slow stands for Sustainable, Local, Organic and Wholesome – is the only one of its kind in the capital, and since launching earlier this year has become a destination for savvy foodies, healthy living aficionados and clued-up locals. It is also establishing itself as the first choice for weekend visitors, searching for some affordable style – and great food.

Despite looking more like a French chateau – all illuminated columns, arches and intricate stonework topped by a tower and cupola – it’s surprisingly easy to miss the Rosewood London. This is a good thing. Set back from the street in that part of London now being marketed New York-style as midtown (located as it is, between West End and the City), its quad is an oasis of calm. Entering through the archway and wrought-iron gates feels like arriving at a royal ball or a shooting weekend at one of our grander stately homes – an impression only heightened by the doormen dressed impeccably in classic English tweeds. It would come as no surprise at all, to see a coach and horses trotting in at any moment.

Yet, while sumptuous, it is resolutely unstuffy. Staff are friendly and I was greeted with a broad smile when I turned up on a Saturday afternoon, having heard rumours of this gem from friends.

Market day is, refreshingly, on Sunday, leaving the Saturday free to explore the area. The British Museum with its Drawing in Silver and Gold and Arab art exhibitions (and forthcoming shows dedicated to Celtic and Egyptian discoveries) is a few streets away, as are Covent Garden, the Royal Opera House, the trendy boutiques of Soho and Seven Dials, and the bright lights of Theatreland.

Alternatively, check into the Rosewood and make the most of its quirky features and outrageous opulence. Rooms are reached by the grandest staircase this side of Versailles. A great sweeping structure, flanked by marble columns and carved balustrades, it was built to impress – and does that in spades. Even the most level-headed visitor affects a swagger, or at least a shimmy, and it’s impossible not to feel like a prince or princess floating down those highly-polished white Italian stone steps. A listed structure, it has been valued at £50m. With a staircase like that, you’d be crazy to take the lift. At least on the way down.

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The floors are also marble, but there is no chintz. Interiors are cool and uncluttered, minimal even, despite the ostentation of the architecture, with decoration provided by cut flowers on antique wooden dressers. By contrast, the 262 rooms and 44 suites are cutting-edge chic, boldly designed with dark wood, white walls, scattered period furniture and more flowers.

I made the most of my suite, which came with a lounge like a private gentleman’s club drawing room, complete with glass –topped coffee table and enormous leather chairs, and a ‘mini’ bar the size of a walk -n wardrobe. Soft drinks were free. It also had a bed so crisp and comfortable it was hard to stand up again.

Mine was relatively modest by Rosewood standards. The six-bedroom Grand Manor House Wing, down the landing, is said to be the biggest in London, and is so large it has its own postcode.

I wasn’t planning on receiving mail, so was perfectly satisfied with my own rooms, especially as the hotel had provided a bottle of its own sloe gin. Very pleasant it was too. And, like the hotel, quintessentially English.

“The whole idea of the Rosewood London is to make it feel less like a hotel than a private residence,” says Rosewood’s delightfully cheery Sophie Montgomery. “There are art, books and quirky features, lively bars and interesting food. It does feel more like staying in an English stately home or stylish London residence – but one that is not stuffy – but fun!”

THE FACTS

* Rosewood London, 252 High Holborn, WC1
* The Rosewood London is inviting guests to sample its Slow Food and Living Market with a special Saturday overnight stay and brunch package 
* Rates are from £345 inclusive of tax and include a one-night stay on a Saturday night in either a room or a suite and a special Sunday brunch in the Mirror Room in conjunction with the Slow Food & Living Market. 
* The package runs until March 2016.
* Go to rosewoodhotels.com

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