Jaine Blackman takes a look at a Cornish hotel on the coast and likes what she sees

The sign above the entrance to The Old Coastguard reads “Eaters and drinkers and for people who want to be surprised by an extraordinary view”.

Well, sorry if I’m spoiling the surprise but they’re not kidding.

The 14 bedroom Old Coastguard sits immediately above the sea on the edge of the West Cornish harbour village of Mousehole.

Walk through the light and airy bar/restaurant area – it’s something of a gastropub – and a stunning vista awaits. You can sit and enjoy a cold drink, snack or full meal overlooking the palm-lined garden running down towards the rocks.

We arrived on a warm, end of May day and enjoyed not just the view but the welcoming ambience of a venue which is clearly as popular with locals as it is with holiday makers.

A dad was organising a group of children in a cricket match at one end of the garden; family groups and friends chatted happily over lunch in the sun and others just popped in for a quick pint (we did sit there rather a long time!).

Inside, the restaurant and the bar form the Upper Deck and on the Lower Deck sofas and armchairs set back from a glass screen run the whole length of the building.

Oak and distressed pine tables, an open fire, and walls hung with art inspired by the area combine to give a comfortable, relaxed feel in smart, stylish surroundings.

It’s owned jointly by brothers, Charles and Edmund Inkin (and the Tresco Estate on the nearby Scilly Isles) and is a sister inn to the other members of their EATDRINKSLEEP stable – The Felin Fach Griffin in Brecon and The Gurnard’s Head near Zennor, St Ives.

Charles takes the lead at The Old Coastguard, adhering to their aim of delivering “the simple things in life done well”.

The brothers were brought up in Wales in a family for whom good food, hospitality and a sense of style were a way of life, the Inkins moved to London and travelled around the world. And it shows in the decor, dining and service.

“Are they giving us special attention because we’re from a newspaper?” asked my friend, impressed with the staff’s attentions.

I didn’t think so, and a quick look on TripAdvisor later seemed to suggest it was just business as usual.

There were a lot of rave reviews about the food too, which backed up our dining experience.

Starting with wonderfully fresh Porthilly oysters with shallot vinegar (three at £6.50) and mussels with cider, chorizo, fennel and apple (£6.50); our mains were harissa spiced mackerel with a tomato, cucumber and mint salad (£11) and fish stew with mussels, fennel and aioli. All tasted as good as they sounded: yes, we could certainly see why The Old Coastguard was named County Dining Pub of the Year for Cornwall in The 2013 Good Pub Guide.

On the drinks side, there was a wide selection of wines by the glass or carafe as well as by the bottle and plenty of real ales from local brewers.

And so to (very comfortable) bed.

The eclectically decorated rooms have no televisions but are supplied with digital Roberts radios and plenty of books.

Colours are muted, creating a relaxing feeling of calm.

We’d noticed earlier in the enclosed garden that quite a few people had dogs with them and it turns out The Old Coastguard is canine-friendly, a big plus for those who hate to leave their pets behind but still want to stay somewhere a bit upmarket.

Not only can man’s best friend stay for free but water bowls and biscuits are provided for them.

I’m not quite so dotty over animals but there was no doggy smell in our bedroom and I wouldn’t have even realised they were fellow residents if I hadn’t spotted a sign offering them free biscuits the next morning.

After a good night’s sleep, breakfast was another delight.

Orange juice was freshly squeezed and there was an appetising buffet of fruits, cereals, breads and pastries along with cooked breakfasts including kedgeree with poached egg.

And special mention must go to the homemade marmalade – chunky and delicious.

We were leaving after breakfast for a flight to the Scilly Isles – it’s very convenient for Land’s End airport – but agreed it would make a great base for discovering more of the delights of West Cornwall.

There’s the outdoor Minack Theatre, secluded beaches, coastal walks, and galleries galore... if you can just manage to tear yourself away from that view.

ESSENTIALS

The Old Coastguard, The Parade, Mousehole, Cornwall, TR19 6PR
01736 731 222
oldcoastguard hotel.co.uk
Doubles for summer 2014 begin at £120 bed and breakfast; £165 dinner, bed and breakfast per couple. See the website for special offers and winter rates