In spring, army landing craft bring pregnant reindeer here, ready to give birth. In summer, cod heads are ground into meal, ready for protein pills.

In bygone autumns, puffin eggs were churned into cream, ready for indulging.

And nowadays, whatever the season, Europe’s most northerly point, can be shrouded in fog. Ready to frustrate me.

Four fascinating facts from Norway – though they kept that last one quiet.

I’m on Mageroya island off north Norway, having arrived on the Hurtigruten, the country’s coastal shipping fleet.

For isolated villages, it’s a lifeline. For tourists, it’s one of the most scenic voyages in the world. Except, of course, when there’s fog.

I stand at the North Cape, picturing sheer cliffs and a raging sea. Good for the imagination.

The fog finally clears and I’m faced with a monstrous, metallic globe. I can’t get excited, but I know when to be reasonable.

Faced with promoting an imaginary line 71 degrees, 10 minutes and 21 seconds north, what can one do? Offer an imaginary tourist attraction?

Inside the North Cape complex there’s an intriguing choice of amusements: an interactive sound and light show chronicling the seasons (think panpipes, beams and beanbags – although the kids love scrambling over these), a subterranean chapel and a Thai souvenir shop.

All reinforce my suspicion that the main attraction, the view, regularly goes unseen. Being a bit of a sceptic, I return to the coach wondering if we’re really at Europe’s northernmost point.

There’s this headland to my left that seems to protrude much further into the sea than my own and with an indignation that mine seems to lack. Our guide then admits there’s a landmass with a latitude of 71,11,8.

A place further north. But no globe means no credentials, and what’s a minute among friends? Ignore the detail. You should still visit the Cape.

Tick off the globe then take in the real attraction – Mageroya and its surroundings: deserted coves, fishermen’s huts, lakes, reindeer and alpine flowers.

The excursion, arranged by Hurtigruten, includes a visit to the indigenous Sami people. It’s touristy but interesting.

The kids will enjoy feeding their reindeer lichen and peering into a lavvu (traditional tent).

Be prepared to splash out on any souvenirs, although everything’s expensive in Norway.

A pint can cost almost £10. As for life on Hurtigruten, at times it’s crazy, chaotic and fun. Crossing the Arctic Circle is marked by a visit from Neptune who welcomes you by chucking ice cubes down your back.

Kids squeal. Mothers scream. Men pretend to be strong. Captain Hollywood (as the crew call him) doesn’t escape either, but still has that twinkle in his eye.

Entering Troll Fjord is equally surreal. A trio of trolls in sackcloth and wild wigs dance the night away as Peer Gynt booms across the deck under the glare of the midnight sun. Captain H spins the ship round on a penny. The women swoon that little bit more.

Antics aside, Norway’s scenery is stunning. Glaciers, waterfalls, seascapes and fjords, reflections, coastlines and clouds. Even the North Cape has a raw, rugged beauty. You’ll forget the fog in seconds.

 

ESSENTIALS

 

Check it out online at hurtigruten.com Hurtigruten ships sail daily, north and southbound, along the coast of Norway between Bergen and Kirkenes.

As part of its 120th anniversary, Hurtigruten is offering special deals on selected dates until mid-September: – Six days, half board (Kirkenes-Bergen) from £800 per person. – A 12-day round trip (Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen), half board from £1,580 per person. – A three-hour trip to the North Cape (Nordkapp) from Honningsvag from £100 per person.