So many spas so little time

Floating around the enormous rooftop al fresco pool viewing the chimney tops of Bath and its legendary skyline at the Thermae Bath Spa was an experience I shall never forget.

But then nothing about Bath strayed far from my memory during the two heavenly days we spent there.

The new Gainsborough Hotel, which was the city’s art school until it moved out of its Georgian buildings to more modern facilities over the road, freeing up the building for a wonderfully suave nostalgic luxury hotel, right smack bang in the centre of town and a literal stone's throw to the Thermae Baths and indeed the Roman baths themselves. In deed the Gainsborough has access to the same underwater hot water that the entire city's fame is based on, as well as boasting it’s own downstairs spa.

The rooms are light, modern, contemporary, soothing and tasteful, a true retreat.

But with so much to do and so little time we sadly didn’t spend nearly enough time there, despite the charming staff and excellent décor and facilities.

Because there was floating to do and massages to be had at the Thermae Bath, where a legion of terry-towelled dressing-gown clad residents and visitors had over their weary bodies for the day and offer them up to the skies above, circling in the pool slowly as their worldy cares slowly wash away.

A quick dash into Bath just to see what shops were on offer, and we were back at the hotel to change for dinner. Taken to the Roman Baths Kitchen where some marvellous and fitting food was served, we were then led to the Roman Baths themselves for a torchlit tour. I hadn’t been for years, a wedding soon after it re-opened when heavily pregnant now a distant memory and I had forgotten how fascinating, mesmerising and intact the baths were, how clever the Romans were while we were banging about in caves, and how beautiful, surely no time more than sunset and dusk as the flames light your way around.

Before bed we managed to stumble across The dark Horse, a new bar which has won all sorts of global awards, and refuses to advertise or publicise itself because the onus has to be on the drinks themselves. The guys who run it are cocktail nerds to a nth degree and as a result their drinks were absolutely remarkable, seasonal, fresh and made by alchemists the cocktails were better than anything I’ve ever tasted, and so pure that I awoke in my suite at The Gainsborough with a clear head.

After a breakfast of kings, despite having tickets to visit the art galleries an d fashion museum, we braved Bath City centre for a spot of shopping and were really surprised by the wealth of shops on offer in the immediate vicinity perched amongst the cobbled streets with independents as prevalent as chains, all tasteful at that.

We scarcely had time to throw our endless bags in our car, pack up and check out before our time ran out and Cinders turned back into a pumpkin. But that’s Bath for you, it cleans you, revives you and shows you the stars, but hurry because the Torchlit tours end this month.

FACTFILE:

The Gainsborough. Rooms at The Gainsborough start at £285. THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA, BEAU STREET, BATH, BA1 1QYT 01225 358 888 www. thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk

Romantic Torchlit Summer Evenings at the Roman Baths in Bath: Torchlit Tour and Dinner at the Roman Baths Kitchen: A special twilight ticket including a three-course dinner at the Roman Baths Kitchen, located just opposite the Roman Baths in the shadow of Bath Abbey, followed by a guided tour of the Roman Baths by torchlight. £39.50 (excluding wine).

In July and August it is recommended that guests arrive at the Roman Baths between 6.00pm / 7.00pm to start part one of the tour. The guided tour takes place at 8.00pm – this time is fixed

Reservations can be made on 0844 8475 256 or email tourism@bathtourism.co.uk.

Spas Ancient and Modern Package

Combine a visit to the Roman Baths, including a Champagne Tea or three course lunch at the Pump Room before spending the evening at the Thermae Bath Spa where you can bathe in the naturally warm, mineral-rich waters of the Minerva Bath and relax in the open-air rooftop pool with its magnificent views over the twinkling lights of the city at sunset. Spa treatments can be booked as an optional extra. £79.00 mid-week, £82 weekend.