Leah McLaren skis at Europe’s highest resort and dons flippers to dive underneath the ice

I was sitting on the edge of a sheet of ice on a frozen lake, looking down a crystal blue hole at the water below, surrounded by snow-covered mountains, when panic started to kick in.

I’d tried to prepare myself for the experience of ice diving, but as my flippers flopped into the icy water, my all over body dry suit and full face mask started to feel all too tight.

After asking my French instructor if he could hold off for a minute so I could ‘man up’ so to speak, I calmed my breathing and began the most spectacular and memorable 20 minutes of my life.

My trip to the Three Valleys in France was with Crystal Ski and I started in the resort of Tignes.

We arrived mid afternoon and checked in to the Hotel Diva.

It was clear to see this was a lively resort with a good mix of young people and our hotel was perfectly positioned for close proximity to the ski lifts.

You have everything you need on your doorstep. Bars, restaurants, night clubs and shops are all a stone’s throw away and there is a bustling après ski feel by the evening.

I was looking forward to getting my ski legs back. I lost my confidence on my last trip after a Frenchman ploughed me off a run.

Nerves were getting the better of me, but Margot from Tignes Tourist Office was a bundle of fun and spent the morning showing me around the slopes and gradually, I got my ski legs back.

Tignes has more than 150km of pisted terrain for all abilities and more than 47 ski lifts, one of which is a railway. I was impressed.

Compared to other resorts, there were no queues and no ice.

Happy skier. I’m no pro, but if you’re an intermediate skier like myself and enjoy pootling around at your own pace and taking in the scenery, there were some lovely green and blue runs and, at the start of the season, they were also quiet.

If you fancy relaxing in the evening you can take a short stroll to the “Lagon” wellness centre, a public spa and gym.

It’s a perfect way to unwind, especially if you are on a budget and can’t afford a high end five-star hotel with spa.

I’ve dived in the Great Barrier Reef and really didn’t know what to expect beneath the icy layers of the lake, except for it to be freezing cold, surely? Luckily I was blessed with the sunshine when I was submerged beneath the ice and it certainly enhanced the beautiful sights below.

I didn’t see any wildlife, but I did see delicate sheets of frozen ice which shattered as I touched them and huge bubbles trapped beneath. With the sun beaming through, it was a dreamy moment.

The next stop on my trip was to Val Thoren, the highest ski resort in Europe, and I must say my favourite of the two resorts I visited.

It has a village feel with chalets, high end shops and hotels. This is where I was going to see the latest alpine collection straight out of Vogue gliding past me on the slopes.

We checked into the Hotel Tango. I loved it here – it was quirky and cool and the go-to place for après ski drinks. This isn’t a luxury hotel, but it is new and inspired by Swedish designers. Trend setters alert.

On the slopes we made our way to the highest point for an obligatory photo stop to see the incredible scenery of the Alps behind us.

Oxford Mail:
Leah McLaren prepares for her dive under the ice at Tignes

Lunch at the Caron Freeride Cafe was a treat. It’s the highest restaurant in France and I was greeted by the most adorable snow dog and the smell of homemade soup.

On our way back down we made a stop at the lively open air 360 bar where we sipped on mulled wine and danced in our ski boots to the live DJ. It was a good look as you can imagine, but what a great time.

We sampled the fabulous restaurants of La Maison Blanche where furry lampshades and polar bears were the decor of choice, and both the food and service were real gems.

The only thing needed to finish off the last leg of this awesome trip was to relax. Skiing is hard work.

Thankfully Val Thoren has just the place – the five-star Hotel Koh-I Noor. A full body massage and dipping between the sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi, pool and experience showers – this was the ultimate relaxation palace.

I’m finally starting to feel like a ski goddess just in time to go home!

So long, snowy wonderland, time to hang up my flippers until next year.