Tim Hughes explores the natural charms of the Isle of Man on an adrenaline-soaked trip

It’s early on a Saturday morning and I’m neck-deep in the Irish Sea being pounded by waves which force me onto the rocks then drag me back out to sea. “Rocks are our friends!” shouts my guide as I reach for a barnacle-encrusted lump of sandstone at the base of a cliff.

“Barnacles are also our friends!” he laughs as I raise a foot onto a slimy boulder, before slipping back into the foaming water. “Seaweed, however, is our enemy – especially when it’s wet!”

As an introduction to the adrenaline and salt water-soaked world of coasteering, it’s as exciting as they come. And Kierron Tastagh is the perfect guide. A bit of a local legend, Kierron has succeeded in putting the craggy coast of the Isle of Man firmly on the map as a top destination for devotees of this frankly bizarre adventure sport. And his wry sense of humour was the only dry thing I encountered all morning.

To the uninitiated, and sensible, the aim of coasteering is to follow the coast as close as possible to the water for as far as you are able. This starts off easily enough, with a hop along the beach and a scramble over rocks, but soon escalates into a full-on adventure, involving free climbing, and, when the rocks run out, high vertical plunges into the churning sea. And, as we inched our way around the headland at the foot of spooky Peel Castle, the rocks ran out abruptly – resulting into a series of increasingly high tombstone jumps.

Fortunately we were wearing wetsuits and helmets, meaning even the brutal waters which separate this strange, autonomous island from nearby Northern Ireland felt toasty.

Entering a deep sea cave beneath the castle ruins, Kierron pointed up. “These used to be smugglers tunnels,” he whispers. “Passages ran right beneath the town, with one coming up in the fish shop. They’re all blocked in now though. Or are they?”

It’s impossible to spend any time on the wilder side of this island without imagining yourself in a Tin Tin or Enid Blyton adventure. It’s a wild and romantic place. Peel Castle has even been credited with being Arthur’s Avalon. Standing sentinel above the blue-grey Irish, or Manx, Sea, it certainly looks the part.

The world may know ‘Mann’, or ‘Ellan Vannin’, as it is variously called by locals, as a tax haven and offshore banking centre populated by fat cats and accountants, but that’s all superficial. At heart it’s a mysterious, Celtic nation which remains quietly proud of its independence as a self-governing British Crown Dependency.

This, after all, is the site of the oldest continuous parliamentary body in the world, the Tynwald, and its flag, with its iconic three-legged triskelion is flown everywhere. The accompanying motto “whichever way you throw, it will stand” seems appropriate for this fortunate lump of rock, barely 30 miles long and 14 wide.

Since Viking times its friendly people have made a habit of landing on their feet Its diminutive proportions belie its diverse landscapes, which range from the towering cliffs of the Calf of Man at its southern edge, to wide sandy beaches in the north west, and the 2,000ft-high summit of Snaefell, where a proudly-maintained mountain railway trundles up to a panoramic restaurant, offering views in each direction, to the misty peaks of Northern Ireland’s Mountains of Mourne, Scotland’s Mull of Galloway, Snowdonia in Wales and the English Lake District.

For the full Victorian experience, take the connecting Manx Electric Railway from the island’s cool capital Douglas – the wood panelling, cute bells, dapper uniformed conductors and dramatic views make it a nostalgic delight.

Man’s greatest claim to fame is, of course, as the home of a rather noisier adrenaline sport – motorcycling, and every summer tens of thousands of riders and enthusiasts pack the island for the Isle of Man TT: a race around the island’s highways, which are largely unencumbered by speed limits.

To see it as more than just a blur, however, swap the power bike for the pedal-powered variety and take to the traffic-free back roads and the excellent network of off-road trails which cross the island. So, after a plate of seafood and a pint of the creamy local Okell’s ale at Peel’s Creek Inn, we hooked up with Matthew McSevney of the Manx Mountain Bike Club in Port Erin, for a ride along the roads which inspired local riders Mark Cavendish and Olympic medallist Peter Kennaugh.

It’s not just the scenery which changes quickly on this island, so does the weather, and after a ride through the afternoon sunshine we soon found ourselves in thick fog as we pedalled up steep moorland trails and forest tracks. Then, suddenly, it opened up, and, with the wind in our faces we hurtled down rocky paths and boardwalks, the rugged fells giving way to glimpses of blue sea and the broad sweep of a wooded bay, the air heavy with the pungent smell of wild garlic.

To see it at an even slower pace, however, swap two wheels for four legs and a bike saddle for one with a horse attached. Set in the Little London Hills at marvellously-named Cronk-y-Voddy, Ballahimmin Riding Centre will set you up for a trip into the wilds which is as hard or easy as you like.

It may lack the buzz of the Isle of Man TT, but it’s still exhilarating, and that is what the Isle of Man is all about – whether that be 2,000 ft above the sea, or neck-deep in it. As our coasteering friend Kierron might have put it: “Adventure is our friend!”

Factfile

Accommodation

  • A double room at the centrally-located Mount Murray Hotel and Country Club (ideal for the coast, Douglas and the airport) on a bed and breakfast basis starts from £99 per room per night. mountmurray.com

Transport

  • Flights to the Isle of Man are available from Gatwick, London City, Birmingham and Southampton. flybe.com
  • The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company (08722 992992; steam-packet.com has a ferry service from Heysham and Liverpool; from £65 each way for car plus two passengers. Deals available from Steam Packet Holidays.

Activities

  • Make like a monkey by swinging from Tarzan ropes, crossing precarious rope bridges, scaling pine trees and sliding down thrillling zip wires at the brand new Ape-Mann Adventure Park. (Ape-'Mann'... get it?!) They'll even supply pedal go-carts for a burn around the forest. 07624 494252
  • Take to the Manx Sea for unparalleled views of towering cliffs, romantic Peel Castle and flocks off seabirds. Also keep an eye peeled for basking shark and dolphins. Manx Sea Quest. manxseaquest.com
  • There is no better, or thrilling, way of exploring the island than by clutching at sea cliffs or paddling your own kayak. Join the fun coasteering or canoing at Adventurous Experiences. adventurousexperiences.com
  • To see the most tranquil parts of the island, two wheels are better than four. Hit the trail with a knowledgeable guide. Isle of Man Cycle Tours. isleofmancycletours.com
  • Hire your own bike and discover the freedom of the backroads and fells. Erin Bike Hut bike hire. erinbikehut.im
  • Saddle up for a trek into the hills at Ballagimmin Pony Trekking Centre. ballahimmin.com

Eating out

  • Douglas: Probably the best food on the Isle of Man is served at 14North. Expertly prepared gastronomic delights largely locally sourced in a super-cool space which attracts the island's beautiful people and savvy visitors. 14north.im
  • Peel: For top-notch pub food, majoring on local seafood, try The Creek Inn close to the quayside in pretty Peel. thecreekin.co.uk
  • For the best views, head to The Sound Café at the Calf of Man, where you can feast on local delights,  sip coffee or enjoy an icecream with 180-degree views over the sea. Look at for seals! dsleisureltd.com

INFORMATION

For more ideas go to Isle of Man Tourism: visitisleofman.com