The Greeks may be in a mess with their economy, but Marc West discovers they still know how to make an excellent tipple

Wine has played an important part in Greek culture for thousands of years – it’s as ancient as the marble columns that line the Parthenon.

The precious liquid even has its own god of the vine, Bacchus – whose worshippers are freed from self-conscious fear and care.

Despite the dreadful news of the country’s current economic meltdown, its wine industry is still producing some excellent bottles.

In fact, with a nod to antiquity, it’s very much back in vogue following nothing short of a renaissance over the last few decades.

The Mediterranean climate of ample sun, minimal rainfall and abundant poor soil sets the stage for some serious grape growing. Combine this with updated technology blended with the nation’s 300 indigenous grape varieties and you have a winning combination that’s done much to elevate the modern-day perception of Greek viticulture.

The physician Hippocrates readily prescribed wine for medicinal purposes and the latest research indicates that drinking (in moderation, of course) may even be good for us…so, cheers to that!

Oxford Wine Festival is an opportunity to explore produce from not only all the classic regions, but also to discover something new – specifically those lovingly created from such undiscovered and emerging countries.

I’m partial to a tipple, but (like most) I’d struggle to distinguish between cheap plonks or award-winning grand cru – and am suspicious of the potential for the emperor’s new clothes in this rather closed world.

So, apart from the so-called experts, why are us “ordinary” drinkers so bad at identifying the differences? Wine tasting is by its nature completely subjective, but part of the answer lies in the sheer complexity of the fermented drink itself, which is a remarkably sophisticated chemical cocktail.

It is said that environmental factors can play a role in tasting. If this be true, there can be no better place to sniff, sip and slurp samples than in the Oxford Union’s Gladstone Room while relaxing in a leather club chair by the stained-glass window as the sun sets.

No-nonsense industry expert Mary Pateras from Eclectic Wines enthusiastically led us through six of her current picks from the country’s crop and helped us appreciate the Holy Trinity of the palate – sugar, acid and alcohol. Swirling it around the glass, taking a deep inhalation of the nose, then a good swig, before finally spitting it out, which seems like sacrilege to me!

Known as Blood of The Dragon, the Skouras Nemea St George is produced from 100 per cent aghiogitiko grapes and aged in French oak – giving it a heavy morello cherry taste with just a hint of eucalyptus.

The 2012 vintage is a real crowd pleaser and I could easily enjoy a bottle (or two) of this with friends to accompany roast lamb over Sunday lunch.

It would take the heart of a victim of Medusa not to be cheered by the idea that Greek wines are better (and now easier to find in the UK) than ever.

Next time I’m en route home from a hard day’s night I’ll know exactly what to treat myself to.

Think of it as a small show of solidarity.

ALTERNATIVE
On Wednesday, September 9, 1855 Wine Bar & Kitchen at Oxford Castle welcomes winemaker Tim Kirk for an evening tasting of Clonakilla – which has been described as “Australia’s greatest wine”. Tickets are £20