Marc West develops a new appreciation for the humble cuppa at a sophisticated tea ceremony in Summertown

As far as I’m concerned, it’s always time for tea.

Being a true Brit, I love a nice cuppa and of all the many varieties now available, “Builder’s” is still my all time guilty pleasure – the stronger, the better.

Tea, of course, is not a new thing. Since the 18th century, Britain has become one of the largest tea consumers in the world and collectively we get through 165 million cups per day. Indeed, per capita, Brits consume more than three times the amount of tea as in China!

But, there’s so much more to our national beverage than just its thirst-quenching properties and what is changing is the way in which we consume the stuff.

Tea is going up-market and being aimed directly at a new-breed of chattering-class foodies who talk passionately about artisan bread, craft beer and single-origin coffee.

It’s no longer just a means to wash down a bacon butty and is quickly surpassing the third wave coffee phenomenon to take centre stage in discussion, debate and exploration – much like a fine wine, cheese or whisky. It looks like us Westerners have finally begun to realise that the humble cuppa can in fact be something extremely special indeed.

Sharing tea is a simple but significant act. When you invite someone to have a cup of tea it is an invitation to spend time together, to sit and listen, to chew over problems, make plans and forge friendships.

And, as I huddled around a bespoke low table with my new found Chayou (tea friends) in the sumptuous surroundings of Liscious Interiors in Summertown (one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the country according to The Sunday Times) I couldn’t have agreed more.

The softly spoken Julie Zhu has over a decade’s experience in leaf-to-water ratio, temperature and infusion time, so who better to introduce our intimate group to the dizzying array of rare and wonderful teas from around the world.

In China, family and friends gather daily to drink tea “for effect or pleasure” in an almost ceremonial steaming process which can last many hours. You won’t find any Brown Bettys here – instead a beautifully dainty glass pot allows us to observe the leaves dancing in the water as they awaken.

Throughout our evening, we learnt to respect these fragile leaves, slow the pace of life and savour a moment of stillness – the exact opposite of the go-faster caffeine culture.

There’s also a whole new realm of tea etiquette to be observed – with two gentle taps on the table to show your thanks and a special way to hold the Kung Fu cup to denote social status. Would my usual slurping be highly frowned upon? In fact, no…it demonstrates a level of sophistication akin to a connoisseur.

Each of the many varieties has it’s own delicate flavour, distinct aroma and inherent health-giving properties. My favourite had to be the Dragon Well green tea from South China – which can sell for up to £12,000 for just 100g!

Oxford Mail:
The Chayou tea ceremony at Liscious Interiors in Summertown

It is highly prized for it’s ultra freshness, light taste and warming sensation – which left me quite flushed. In fact, we all got a little “tea tipsy” and floated home on a wave of euphoria that lasted until the following morning.

Through these intimate gatherings, Tea Master (in the making) James Thirlwall is aiming to create a culture of enjoying “the liquid amber” in Oxford and will be hosting his next workshop entitled “Quiet Medicine” at Eau de Vie on Cowley Road this Sunday from 2-5pm.

The afternoon aims to immerse the participants in the very essence of tea and Qi to discover why poets, priests and doctors have used it as an elixir of life for centuries.

Ultimately, you’ll take a tour around the body and (like me) experience the dramatic changes each type of tea can create within us.

For all details visit chayoutea.com