When it’s time for ‘tee’, KATHERINE MACALISTER knows the perfect place... Where are we going?” Mr Greedy asked as we drove through a huge industrial estate in Witney.

Good question. “Or have we stopped at the service station?” he continued facetiously, peering out of the window as I parked in the huge sprawling car park at the Witney Lakes Resort.

But to be fair even I was beginning to question the wisdom of eating dinner at a golf club, whose menus always seem to include cream of tomato soup and garlic mushrooms followed by Beef Wellington, and lots of men in funny trousers with flappy shoes talking about birdies.

But encouraged by the sign outside the imaginatively named The Restaurant advertising Great British Food night on Thursdays, I swallowed my misgivings, beamed confidently and strode into the foyer.

Foodie Evening is restaurant manager Ross Drummond’s baby and what started out as an idea for a weekly promotion quickly developed into a Thursday staple with a cult following. Emails are sent out every week to The Restaurant’s client base letting people know what’s on offer from dover sole off the day-boats and the first grouse of the season to kidneys, haggis and saddle of hare. What a great idea.

As soon as the doors opened any reservations were silenced.

For a start the place was packed. And not with golf bores. Lots of groups of girls, couples, parties and even a young couple on date night. This is not just men putting their clubs away and retiring to the bar for a stiff G&T and a bar snack. This clientele is here for the food, and would look as bewildered as me at talk of ‘eagles’ – isn’t that a bird of prey?

The Restaurant itself is light and airy, with only a few tell-tale signs reminding you that you are actually in a ‘resort’ - but Ross’s fabulous welcome, the impeccable service and enticing menu from head chef Owen Little reassure you that you’ve actually discovered somewhere rather special. But it was the first mouthful that rendered us speechless.

The pea, mint and asparagus risotto was the best I’ve ever tasted, apart from Raymond Blanc’s wonderful offerings.

Bursting with flavour yet not overwhelming, the clear, sweet, crisp tastes of the individual ingredients spoke for themselves. Marvellous. The home-smoked salmon, potato pancake, horseradish and beetroot relish were also startlingly good. The relish was genius – hot, home-made but sweetened by the seasonal beetroot. The salmon was also of the finest quality and the potato cakes gave an edge to what can sometimes be a predictable dish.

Mr Greedy visibly brightened, especially as he’d ordered the 10oz sirloin of Oxfordshire beef, roast shallots and watercress puree, which came with hand-cut chips, sprouting brocolli and carrots.

My chargrilled haloumi with Moroccan pesto and market salad, was also sublime, the haloumi being griddled to give it a rich, smoky taste. And even though this meal was obviously already over par (sorry couldn’t resist), it was the extras that gave it the final flourish. Because everything, and I mean everything, was hand-made. The warm rolls we were given when we ordered, the amuse bouche Parmesan biscuits with vine-ripened tomatoes, the mayonnaise that accompanied the chips, even the mustard that came with the steak boasted a hand written label marked ‘coriander and apricot’ which tasted heavenly. I could have eaten it with a spoon.

Full to the brim, we felt we ought to try dessert, and opted for the warm chocolate almond pudding, Baileys and praline ice cream, accompanied by the cheese board. The cheeseboard won hands down. For a start each cheese’s description was proudly written up on a specials board, and the platter came accompanied by home-made apple and thyme jelly and home-made walnut bread. And coffee from the Gods.

As if this wasn’t enough of a gift, the bill was even more astounding. Two courses for £17 and three courses for £20. Jaws hanging open we tried to make a dignified exit without looking as if we’d discovered the Holy Grail.

Need I say more?

Not really. It was a hole-in-one as far as we were concerned.

The Restaurant, Witney Lakes Resort, Downs Road, OX29 0SY. Call 01993 893012. Email dine@witney-lakes.co.uk to be put on the weekly mailing lists.

witney-lakes.co.uk