The trouble with shouting from the rooftops about a new-found favourite is people invariably cotton on, pitch up in their droves and it no longer feels special.

So imagine me whispering quietly about this little gem because it has the potential to become something special.

For the past month or so, Abigail Rose and Chris Bentham have been trying to restore the reputation of a once-proud pub.

And for a while The Black Boy did have something of a ‘reputation’. One well-informed individual told me that a few years ago a wedding party got a little over-excited and a street brawl erupted in the genteel environs of Old High Street.

Thankfully, things have changed since then and the latest incarnation of the pub has lots of promise. Inside, it looks more like a gastro pub than a spit-and-sawdust boozer, but that’s no bad thing.

It’s clean and clinical, but don’t interpret that as having no atmosphere; it’s probably to do with the fact the venue has only been open for a few weeks. The decor is striking and warm, but it needs time to grow into itself.

There’s a cosy lounge area with roaring fire, perfect for pre-dinner drinks or a pint of real ale (guest beers change weekly), a large bar area, a casual eating area and a separate restaurant.

On Sundays, the pub runs a kids’ kitchen where youngsters can learn to cook (Abi and Chris were both pupils of Raymond Blanc); on Sunday nights (monthly) there’s an acoustic open mic; Tuesdays it’s quiz night and Thursdays it’s jazz.

Food wise, hearty home cooked meals are the order of the day with a menu that’s unpretentious and stuffed full of old favourites and cunning twists — all under £10.

As a starter, the ham hock terrine was a delicious and delicate plate of cold meat – perfectly accompanied by tangy and crunchy piccalilli.

The roast at £7.95 is excellent value (it’s £4.50 for children) and although it wasn’t the best I’ve had, three or four succulent slices of pork with crisp winter vegetables and gravy (technically, I think it’s called a jus) was spot on.

The only criticism was the steak and kidney pie, for which the word ‘pie’ was a little generous. It was essentially lumps of meat (delicious, I am told) with a small pastry hat..

However, there were no complaints from the person who ordered it.

Portion-wise, I was left a little disappointed with the size of my meal — but that might be a little unfair given I generally like it piled high.

Given time, this place will surely become a great success.

THE BILL: Ham hock terrine x2 £9 Smoked haddock fishcake £8.95 Fish pie with green beans £7.95 Steak and kidney pie £8.95 Roast pork £7.95 Bowl of chips £2.50 Two pints of draught real ale £5.80 Carignan merlot x2 £23.90 TOTAL: (four people) £75