Tim Hughes toasts the memory of the great wartime leader with a luxurious champagne afternoon tea at Blenheim Palace

THEY say Winston Churchill never let a day go by without drinking a pint of champagne. And with a reputation as our greatest ever leader, it obviously did him the power of good.

Given the wartime statesman’s love of fizz, there is no better place to enjoy a flute of the good stuff than his birthplace – Blenheim Palace.

For good reason, the palace is currently home to a week-long celebration of bubbly, National Champagne Week. And as well as tastings and general quaffing, the stately home’s gorgeously graceful Orangery is offering a special champagne afternoon tea.

The team at Searcys, which runs the restaurants at Blenheim, have tasked their head pastry chef Romi Verstappen to come up with a range of delights for a pop-up themed on Perrier-Jouët – one of the most distinguished and venerable producers, which has been supplying us Brits with first class fizz since 1811.

The palace is always great for a day out, and afternoon tea in the Orangery is a quintessential Oxfordshire experience, well worth the money (costing about what you would probably pay for an average meal at a high street chain). Throw in a glass of bubbly and it is pretty close to heaven – particularly on a crisp October afternoon, with the sun streaming through the windows, lighting up the canopy of white ironwork and gilded chandeliers.

It’s tempting to imagine yourself in an Evelyn Waugh or PG Wodehouse novel as you brush past lavish potted palms, discreet and immaculately dressed waiters showing you to your seat. Oh, how the other half live!

I asked the cheery restaurant manager Jonas Alderin whether the Duke ever dropped by. “Oh yes!” he smiled... “of course. Though he is very, very busy...”

We perched on tall chairs at a high table, crowned by an elaborate ‘Enchanted Tree’ serving stand – entwined curving metal fronds holding four champagne flutes, surrounding an ice bucket sporting a chilled bottle of Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut. Clearly this was going to be very special.

Crisp, delicate and with a full, rounded fruity finish, the champagne oozed cherry, apricot and slight flowery notes, and was biscuit dry.

It was almost superfluous to order a pot of tea alongside it, but being sticklers for tradition, it seemed churlish not to go along with the ritual – and a light jasmine actually went very well with the fizz.

The food was brought to the table by Jonas, accompanied by a smiling Romi. This was star treatment – and we weren’t alone; everyone is made to feel like a VIP. The star treatment was elevated by the arrival of the food, served on triple-tired cake stands: sandwiches and savouries on the bottom, scones and pastries in the middle and the most ornate cakes I have ever seen, hovering on the top.

The attention to detail was eye-popping. Romi bases her creations on French Belle Epoque decorative detail, and they are almost too lovely to eat.

Sandwiches on firm, springy bread contained a tangy Coronation chicken, ham and wholegrain mustard and, naturally, cucumber. All were hoovered up with relish. The scones were little balls of lightness, which crumbled slightly when cut, and piled high with jam and rich clotted cream.

But it was the pastries which stole the show – a fruit tart topped with cream and a segment of passion fruit, cream slices finished with fresh blackberries, fruity macarons and, best of all, a chocolate bombe filled with peanut mousse and crowned by a gold-dusted nut and chocolate shard. It was so good we almost forgot the champagne.

I’m certain Sir Winston would have approved. Now where’s that cigar?

*Afternoon tea at blenheim palace starts at £19.95. go to blenheimpalace.com