Harry did his research. What did Cowley Road want that it didn’t have? He asked around and the answer was unanimous. Good home-cooked grub, comfort food, a decent roast and good value for money. So that’s what he gave them.

Harry’s as it’s so novelly called has been open since June on the spot of The Corridor, formerly The New Inn for those of us who have been around long enough to remember a street full of little but pubs and curry houses.

Since then Cowley Road has become so cosmopolitan, your average Indian having to compete with food from around the world and as a result, often going under in the process.

It meant that, ironically, this global culinary kaleidoscope left a gap in the market for something more traditional, and in came Harry with his ironic retro take on a restaurant.

All dark wood and red booths, a long bar, and cheerful staff it reminded me of the American sitcom Cheers.

More of a restaurant than a bar, it has a simple, attractive and regularly changing menu, a focus on fresh local produce, and great prices; two courses £13.95, three for £17.95 when we visited for lunch.

Roasts will follow as the weather gets colder, but on a bright sunny autumnal lunch the burgers, ribs and steaks style choices massively appealed.

We opted for a main and dessert rather than the full whammy. Burgers all round with edam, treacle bacon and fries, a chickpea, spinach and sweet potato curry with coconut rice which also came with naan and mango chutney, and the mushroom, puy lentil and butterbean burger with roasted pepper and fries. The beer battered onions rings with a chipotle sauce were to die for.

(More health conscious options include an asparagus and broad bean risotto)

There was a slight wait for our food but as its all cooked fresh to order, and we were enjoying the fresh juices- rhubarb was a particular favourite- were happy to wait.

And boy it was worth it, our plates piled so high with oozing cheese and bacon, buns, burgers, lettuce and tomato towering up the plate that they needed deconstructing before we could contemplate eating them.

We then scratched our heads for a while before all coming to the same conclusion - that there was no easy or polite way of eating them, and set to work.

As sauce and juices flowed and we mopped, wiped, munched and made appreciative noises, the feeding frenzy slowly stilled, this pack of lions gradually satiated way before the food ran out.

Mr Greedy finished first, sweating and strangely silent. The curry was delicious and the veggie burger as appreciated as its meat counterpart. But having ordered full portions for the kids we relied on doggy bags to take the rest home.

Managing the orange and chocolate tart and a portion of sticky toffee pudding to share, we made a token effort, the tart just the right size with a wonderful thick chocolate filling and delicious pastry. The sponge was as light and fluffy as expected. All for £13.95.

So thanks Harry, good idea and much appreciated. If you want some really decent, traditional, filling, value for money food without any gimmicks and a decent chef in the kitchens, then head over and chow on down.

As for me, I’ll be back very soon for the roast. Bring on the autumn.

Harry's Bar and Grill

119, Cowley Road, Oxford OX4 1HU

01865 604776

www.harrysoxford.com/