“Do you go back to restaurants more than once before you review them?” is a common question. Nope is the quick answer. In these days of murderous deadlines and two to three restaurants a week to review, it’s a one night only arrangement.

And rarely do I regret this rule. Because most punters will make an assessment on the meal in question and if it’s no good, won’t return. I’m no different to anyone else in that respect

But we had unfinished business, the White Hart in Fyfield and I. Not that you can ever have a bad meal there, such is the excellent standard of cooking.

But let’s just say there were a few bad notes, when I visited this winter, and having filed my copy then found out that the dessert chef/God had been called away to visit his ill father, and an agency staff member had made my pudding.

I felt bad, that I hadn't done it justice. I wanted to go back but when? And then my opportunity arrived in the shape of the new menu which boasted the magic words 'stuffed courgette flowers', which was on my bucket list, and the deal was done.

What followed was one of the most memorable meals in recent history. Every dish was faultless and my fellow diners marked each course 10/10. Not only is Mark Chandler’s food seasonal to an extreme, the ingredients, positively radiate with freshly picked taste and texture. The beetroot, feta and hazelnut salad (£8) for example was a vision of delight, the beetroot served three ways - tempura'd, as a roulade, and with thinly slices of striped candy, all mingling with the salty cheese, crunchy hazelnuts and zesty orange dressing, and then beautifully positioned on the plate.

The others had some magnificent looking Frilford asparagus with a crispy egg, Kelmscott parma ham and hollandaise sauce, a portion of chicken and duck liver parfait and even some salmon gravadlax with marinated cucumber salad. But was I interested? Did I even notice? It’s hard when your eyes are closed savouring every mouthful of sweet, sour, prickly, crunchy, softness that each mouthful entailed.

I saved the best for next, working myself up into a frenzy of anticipation – the “tempura courgette flower stuffed with ricotta, lemon and toasted pine nuts with a herb gnocchi" (£15) igniting all my taste buds in one sun-kissed hit (£15) and have been reliving every morsel since. How can I describe it? Summer heaven on a plate is too general, it was more like the moment you step off a plane and the heat and smell of the Mediterranean, hit you in a wonderful drowsy wave.

Forget conversation, or anecdotes, the swapping of news, catching up, romance (Mr Greedy knows the signs) - just leave me be. He cast a happy eye at me as he ploughed through his rump of Cotswold lamb with broad bean croquettes, peas and mashed carrots (£21), as if he’d just discovered the holy grail.

And maybe we had, sea bass with Salcombe crab, Jersey royals, bisque and samphire (£20) were being praised on the other side of the table, but I ignored it all, until the last forkful of yellow flower was blissfully consumed as the world carried on around me.

The others had dessert. I was done - there was no point trying to exceed my meal - give or take the odd spoonful which demonstrated an exceptional display of artistic presence and a true understanding of flavour, as the dark chocolate fondant, pistachio ice cream, an extraordinarily good sticky toffee pudding with warm butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream, and even the white chocolate panna cotta with strawberries three ways topped with a tiny delicious light, airy, sugary doughnut were a fait accompli.

A triumph of a meal in every way then. Good job I went back for seconds.

The White Hart, Main Road, Fyfield, Abingdon. Oxon. OX135LW. www.whitehart-fyfield.com. 01865 390585.