SUMMERTOWN has long been regarded as one of the nest parts of Oxford. A feature in the Sunday Times recently listed it as one of the best places to live in Britain.

For foodies it is well served with great Chinese and Lebanese takeaways, a couple of decent Bangladeshi restaurants, probably the best pizzas in town at Mama Mia, and, of course, the acclaimed Oxford Kitchen. Heck, it even has a hip new 'artisan' bakery in Gail's.

One thing it is not well served by, however, is pubs.

While the area used to have at least five, in very recent memory, it is now reduced to one survivor – and, until recently, it was hardly worth the journey. Dowdy, tatty and unwelcoming, the 19th century tavern had fallen on hard times.

The good news is, the Dew Drop Inn has bounced back from mediocrity with a bold new look (exposed brick, teal walls and low lamps), cosy booths, an array of interesting craft beers, a cracking wine list and spruced-up outside seating areas, fore and aft. It also has a new menu. And, considering it is the only real pub between South Parade and the centre of Kidlington – a distance of five miles – that has to be a very good thing.

Out of curiosity, I had previously wandered down to the Dew Drop, post -refurb, for a pint (the Tiger, by Leicester brewer Everards is excellent), but have never eaten in the place, either before the change or after. I had, however, heard reports that it was not half-bad (this usually accompanied by a raised eyebrow as if to say "I know, really, who would've thought it?"). So were they right?

Well, the first thing to point out is that there is nothing either gastro about the place; the owners of the Oxford Kitchen can sleep easily on that front. It's not even particularly hip (thank heavens).

What it does is what a suburban pub should do: Reasonable pub grub, majoring on English classics, at a decent price.

That makes it great for families, so rounding up my two junior assistant reviewers, the Hughes boys set off for a night at the pub.

As it's still primarily a pub, you order at the bar – which can take some time, but does allow time to peruse the impressive range of draft and bottled beers.

One of the strengths of the menu is the array of smaller sharing dishes, so we started with a few of those - in the shape of sweet chilli and lime glazed squid (£6), braised brisket cubes with Buffalo sauce (£6), and truffle mac 'n cheese bites (£3.75). They were all very good indeed. The squid was tender and nicely-cooked, with none of the rubberiness one usually gets. It also looked wonderful. I would have perhaps liked a spicier sauce than the sweet variety, but freely admit I have a heat resistant, asbestos-coated mouth.

The brisket came deep fried, giving them a crisp bite yet soft tender centre. The sauce packed a bit more punch and complemented the crunchy coating and more delicate beef.

The mac 'n cheese bites were best of all (despite the horrible name - what's wrong with calling it Macaroni cheese as we have done for, like.. ever?). There was no skimping on the truffle oil, and while hard and crunchy on the outside, they were tender, aromatic and very tasty – if a little stodgy – on the inside. They disappeared in seconds, leaving us all, if I am honest, a little full already.

Our first choice of main courses – steak and a tasty-sounding pan-fried sea bass – were not available, so we settled on the next best thing, enormous double burgers (£11.50) and fish and chips (£11.75) for me.

The burgers were formidable, topped with Cheddar and crispy bacon and a pot of fries, they were nicely-cooked and as good as any other pub burger in town. The fish and chips (purported to be line-caught cod) was absolutely fine with chunky chips and a nice pea puree. It was served on fake newspaper – which puzzled and amused the boys no end, they having no idea why anyone would do such a thing – prompting a rambling trip down memory lane with tales of eating soggy chips out of real newspaper (which is probably all imagined, anyway).

Needless to say, it went down well with a pint of summery draught IPA.

We finished off with a couple of puds to share – a gooey chocolate brownie, which was too rich for the kids, but just right for me, and a lovely sticky toffee pudding (both £5.50). Each came with a little scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. A bit more would have been nice.

A cracking meal all round, then, with regular trips to the bar to replenish drinks and ordering subsequent courses and coffees ensuring a bit of exercise to burn off all those carbs.

Summertown has finally got the pub it deserves. And not before time do. 'Dew' drop in, if you are passing.

The Dew Drop Inn, Banbury Road, Summertown, Oxford

thedewdropinnoxford.co.uk