Restaurateurs Jonny and Damian manage to bowl over Katherine MacAlister with their neighbourhood-run eatery in Headington

Jacobs & Field has been so utterly transformed recently that I actually walked past before realising that it now spans both sides of Waitrose in Headington.

This more than doubles its size and transforms it from a tiny café/deli/foodies’ treasure trove into a proper restaurant.

Beautifully decorated in the shabby-chic, chalet-style décor also favoured at Soho Farmhouse, the same ethos pervades as before – still serving gentle, rustic homemade food to an ever growing number of appreciative clientele from mums and office workers to friends and couples.

I arrived just before noon last week for lunch, happily waiting a few minutes for the only available table. Lucky I did, because soon afterwards the queue was stretching out of the door as wannabe diners stood waiting hopefully, desperate to sample some of Jonny and Damian’s fine food.

With three strings to their bow in the shape of Jacobs and Field, Jacobs Inn and Jacobs Chop House, these two are busy boys overseeing their empire and no doubt planning their next move and I spied them mid-meeting in the corner, both resplendent in tweed.

Waiting for my friend gave me time to admire the large open kitchen that now accommodates a much broader menu of pizzas and mains, as well as the classic offerings of pies, soups, sandwiches and cakes enabling Jacobs & Field to now open late as well, further confirming its status as a restaurant rather than just a cafe.

The numerous waiting staff were right on top of rush hour, seating us quickly, arranging tea and coffee and a gorgeously refreshing elderflower presse, returning time and time again to take our order, ever patient as we nattered on obliviously.

Finally making a decision, I steadfastly ignored the rustic pizzas calling my name that were being deposited around the room, looking more like Italian flatbreads that the more manicured rounded variety. They even come as a takeaway option now.

I also studiously ignored the gorgeous sounding brunch menu served pretty much all day, which included my favourite kedgeree and a lovely looking full English.

Instead, I stuck to my guns and ordered the tartiflette (£8.50) in deference to the weather and season – perfect timing for the rich chunks of potato, bacon, reblochon and cream baked to a golden brown in the oven and then served with a side salad, and as delicious, alpine and filling as I’d hoped for.

My friend chose the soup of the day, a lovely thick tomato served with large hunks of bread – again a defiantly cheerful wintry dish which ticked all the boxes.

She was on far better behaviour than me, managing to resist the lovely selection of cakes and biscuits, flans, pies and breads on display in the food counter in the original part of the cafe.

I, however, fell at the first hurdle, a slice of banana bread served hot and toasted with a slab of butter and a pot of Nutella. It had my name on.

The reality wasn’t as great as I’d hoped. I think it had lost that lovely juicy, nutty moistness you expect in the toasting process. More flavour for me please, but of course I ate it anyway while my calorie counter rocketed through the roof.

Over another cup of coffee we mused on how much we liked the new transformation. Jonny and Damian must be laughing into their carefully coiffed beards.

But this is exactly what Oxford, or in this case Headington, needs; a neighbourhood-run, foodie inspired, locally sourced ever expanding culinary empire. Big congrats boys.

Jacobs & Field,
15 Old High Street, Headington, Oxford OX3 9HP
01865 766990