In search of the perfect pre-show meal, Tim Hughes enjoys a great value taste of France, served with Gallic style and impressive efficiency

I realise I may be alone here, this but I’m convinced theatre starts way too early in this town.

Gainfully employed theatre lovers face a mighty dash to get from work, to home and on to their night’s entertainment, with curtain generally up by 7.30pm. Factor in eating, and it can turn into a battle against time and space, with the only options being a quick chow down at a bland chain eatery - often paying over the odds for the dubious pleasure - or going hungry.

There is at least one city centre restaurant that is dedicated to feeding hungry theatre-goers, though - and doing so without depriving them of excess time or money.

Pierre Victoire, in Little Clarendon Street, is justifiably popular as a spot for a late, lingering dinner. But its appropriately Gallic Pré Théâtre menu - two courses and coffee for just £11.50 - also marks it out as the best place in town for a munch before a show.

The first thing in its favour is it’s fast. The menu applies between 6-7pm and the ever-cheery deliciously-accented staff - all of whom seem to be French (or at least put on a good show) - are primed to go into special forces mode from the moment you order; drinks and food arriving rapidly, but without any sense of being rushed. There’s no danger of missing the first act - but if you don’t have to trot off to the Playhouse or New Theatre, there’s nothing to stop you staying.

The menu is a sawn-off version of their formidable à la carte selection, with a changing choice of four starters and five mains. Like everything else here, the food is as genuinely French as a kiss on the cheeks or a shrug of the shoulders.

We started with a fabulous Salade de Canard - a warm dish of juicy chunks of pan-fried duck, heaped in a little mound with julienned vegetables (principally carrot). It was served with a generous slug of soy, sesame oil and lime dressing, and was so good I contemplated cancelling my main course order and having another one.

I also snuck a mouthful of the tasty Terrine de Maquereau Fumé - a firm smoked mackerel terrine - which came with slices of lemon, tomato and radish, and a dollop of mild horseradish cream to offset the smoky-fishiness.

There was more duck to be had among the mains, in the shape of a slow-roasted leg served on a potato rösti with an apricot glaze, and revelling in the name Confit de Canard à l’Abricot. I also pinched a piece of that, and fell in love with its combination of firm, juicy flesh and crunchy carbs. The apricot was subtle enough to balance out the meat without being too sweet.

Having decided not to go down the double-duck route, I tucked into a very generous pork steak served with mustard sauce and the creamiest Dauphinoise potatoes this side of La Manche.

The pork was tender while the sauce, made with wholegrain mustard, was smooth and peppery without being hot, complimenting the subtle sweetness of the meat. And it was gratifyingly huge - if the play had been less interesting I’d have happily slept through the second half, with a satisfied smile on my face.

The whole thing was washed down with a French (of course) Sauvignon de Touraine, from the Domaine Patrick Vauvy (£18.40). Less sharp than many of its ilk, it was refreshing and exciting without the cheek-sucking citrus bite, of which, I admit, I am not a fan. It was an excellent choice at a good price - as indeed was the whole meal.

I don’t know of anywhere else, where you can indulge a love of French cooking for the price of an average pizza or burger and chips in most other places - and still make curtain up. Bravo! I’ll certainly be back for an encore!

Pierre Victoire, Little Clarendon Street, Oxford 01865 316616
pierrevictoire.co.uk