Since opening two years ago, Cowley Road’s Big Society has become one of the city’s most popular after-hours drinking spots.

Sprawling throughout a large former pub which, in its most recent previous incarnation was a Chinese restaurant and karaoke bar, it is modelled on those lofty, urban hipster watering holes ubiquitous everywhere from Brooklyn to Shoreditch. It even has table tennis for Heaven’s sake. And games with most of the bits missing.

While rammed and steamy by night, especially at weekends – when the drawn out task of ordering a drink makes the Royal Marine entrance test feel like a picnic – the cavernous interior, with its stripped board floors and uncluttered walls, is drafty and, on my visit downright chilly. A daytime or evening visit (food until 10pm) does, however, give you a chance to try some of Oxford’s best comfort food – well worth doing, even if you do have to keep your coat on.

The food is all US diner style. Of course, it is. So there’s fried chicken, hot wings, hot dogs, pulled pork (isn’t it always?) burgers and macaroni cheese (I refuse to bow to the pretentious, habit of calling it mac & cheese – though, by now, it is only me, half a dozen pensioners, a few Italians and the Heinz corporation manning the barricade against this creeping culinary Americanisation).

This being a takeaway column, I had intended to order my food and leave, but, I confess, I stayed. It was partly because of the beer. Okay, it was all about the beer. The bar offers an ever-changing, but constantly delicious, pair of guest ales and their own Big Society Pale Ale. Sadly, they are served in ludicrous 2/3 pint schooners (Surely the only thing that should come in schooners is sherry. And sailors). At least it’s commensurately cheaper.

Anyway, this is supposed to be about the food and, yes, it is good whether you eat in or out.

The chicken is unbelievably fine. Soaked in milk overnight, it is tender while still having bite, and the coating dry and crunchy.

The chips are perfect, the home made burgers juicy, and the mac & cheese (damn, I said it!) pretty good too, being crispy on top, though a bit gloopy around the bottom. Mind you, aren’t we all at this time of year? All in all, it trounces the local diner opposition. Just bring a warm coat.

Big Society, Cowley Road, Oxford. noon-2pm (Fri-Sat), noon-midnight, Sun-Thurs.
bigsocietyoxford.com