Review - Red Lion, Britwell Salome

It was a good job we’d booked a table for Friday night at The Red Lion because the following day head chef Andrew Hill was awarded Gastro Pub Chef of the Year, and I doubt I’d have even got my foot in the door. As it was, they could only squeeze us in at 8.45pm, which gave us plenty of time to wind our way down the A40, getting off at Lewknor and driving through Watlington to Britwell Salome which is literally in the middle-of-nowhere.

Stopping outside the unassuming pub, had I not visited over the summer I would have thought I’d got the wrong place, that all the fuss and fanfare must relate to somewhere more showy, lavish, but no.

Push open the front door and the warm, relaxed, welcoming feel created by Andrew’s other half Eilidh Ferguson immediately sets you at ease, everyone sitting, chatting and eating around us, all bathed in the warm glow from the fire, no pretensions of grandeur here.

No the star of the show is certainly the food, Andrew’s efforts in the kitchen, providing the wow factor and I for one, couldn’t wait to give it another go. We ate in the courtyard garden last time, which seemed like a world away from the icy depths of winter but Andrew’s menu has moved on as swiftly as the seasons, and his offerings are perfect winter fodder.

The easiest way to get to grips with the wonderful food is to order the starter platter, a far cry from the cliched olive, humuus, roasted pepper scenario, and while we waited we drank some deliciously crisp English Brut Rosé.

The wooden board arrived, weighted down with tiny glasses of Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffle oil, alongside a tiny version of Andrew’s signature black pudding Scotch egg, triangles of Brillat Truffé cheese with Granny Smith, grapes and pistachio ajo blanco, some breaded mushrooms with tarragon aïoli and dried olives, and finally portions of home smoked salmon, black pepper and lemon labneh (a thick yoghurt) and cucumber, one portion of each for us all, the lightness of the soup contrasting with the depth of flavour, being a real highlight for me.

Such was the finesse and love devoted to each and every component, it was almost a shame to move on to the more substantial mains. But the RLF (a local farm) pork two ways with apples, alliums and sage (£18.50) was a wonder to behold, the roast duck breast, separate leg roll, red cabbage and kohl rabi (£20.50) proof that Andrew always goes that extra mile to make his food more interesting, and the eight hour brisket, which fell off the bone, the meat almost melting in the mouth, served with crushed carrot and swede, candied parsnip and January King (a kind of cabbage) for £18.50.

We were the last in and the last out and should have managed pudding, but we were stuffed and it was late. It was dark outside and the roads were icing up, although with food like that I’d have happily rolled up in the carpet, bided my time and resurfaced in time for the next service.

Andrew and Eilidh have really got something here and are fast becoming big names, not just on the local food map, but the national one. So get down there before their fame travels so far and wide that it’s impossible to get a table at all. These really are stars in the making.

RED LION
Britwell Salome, Near Watlington,
01491 613140 theredlionbritwellsalome.co.uk

• Do you want alerts delivered straight to your phone via our WhatsApp service? Text NEWS or SPORT or NEWS AND SPORT, depending on which services you want, and your full name to 07767 417704. Save our number into your phone’s contacts as Oxford Mail WhatsApp and ensure you have WhatsApp installed.