A new eaterie on George Street is fleshing out the choice for meat lovers

“Meat!” The answer was short, to the point – and bang on the money.

I had been asking foodie friends what I could expect from the latest chain to set up base in George Street – and there was one over-riding theme. “It’s a carnivore’s dream,” laughed one.

“Don’t go if you fancy something green,” grinned another.

Occupying the former home of the Fire & Stone pizza place and, for many years before that, Old Orleans, Cleaver sits in a prime location on George Street, at the heart of the city’s night time economy.

Yet despite the Friday night bustle outside, inside things were surprisingly quiet. Which is a shame, because Cleaver has hit upon a good thing.

The clue, of course, is in the name – the eponymous butchering implement plastered over menus – which are, as predicted, heavy on flesh – be it from cow, pig or chicken – and light on everything else.

“Oh my God - there is, like, only one veggie option apart from the salads” laughed my friend – who thankfully isn’t vegetarian. But then, that’s kind of the point. You wouldn’t head to Aziz for a lasagne or Jamie’s Italian for a prawn madras.

Fortunately the decor is more ‘gastro pub meets trendy beach bar’ than abattoir with acres of stripped wood, funky lamps and fun papier mache porkers, which while cute were not enough to put off diners from digging into their sticky racks of ribs.

We started with tortilla chips (£3.75) and spicy humus (£3.95), washed down with a decent and reasonably priced, crisp South African Chenin Blanc (£13.95). The wine list, aimed at couples on first dates rather than connoisseurs, is divided into ‘Good’, ‘Better’ and ‘Best’ – in case the prices alone weren’t clue enough. And, while I fully expected otherwise, I have to say, ‘good’ was a reasonable description, particularly given the price.

In fact, the drinks were winners all round, with Camden and Brew Dog craft ales, draft Pilsner Urquell and bottles of Aspell Cyder an alternative to Corona and Peroni.

Having long fallen off the veggie wagon, I was delighted to see among the burgers, ribs and chicken (whole, halved or quartered) a churrasco grill section, featuring Gaucho favourite picanha steak (£12.95).

Surprisingly this South American delight is only offered medium rare – which suited me fine, but may put off those who unaccountably prefer their beef charred and rubbery. It was pretty close to perfect (though I’d have liked a bit more) and came served on spiced rice instead of chips.

My friend went for the chicken wrapped in dry-cured bacon (£10.95) which was less successful, the chunks of chicken being a little dry. We also over-ordered with sides of corn on the cob and roasted vegetables – which while nice, weren’t really necessary.

Still, there was room for pudding and I made quick work of a banana bread and butter pudding with ice cream (£5.25).

It was all pretty good, but, with the exception of the wines not particularly cheap. The hipster craft beer-pub flourishes show it is being angled at a crowd turned off by blander chains, yet whether it can succeed in the face of competition from the real thing will have to bee seen. I hope it does.

Cleaver, 36 George Street, Oxford 
Call 01865 251718

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