As the great George Orwell might have said after a night on the tiles in Oxford, “all kebabs are equal – but some kebabs are more equal than others”.

Actually, it is unlikely the South Oxfordshire writer, real name Eric Blair, went anywhere near a doner, on his trips into the city, but the truth remains that, like Orwell’s animals, there is much to differentiate between the swarm of food vans which roll onto our streets each evening.

Regular readers may have gathered I am a bit of a fan of the delights of nocturnal Near and Middle Eastern cuisine and a critic of those snobs who turn up their noses at the charms of freshly sliced meat stacked on a warm pita with a mound of salad. I also contest the falsehood that one needs to be inebriated to appreciate a good shish.

That said, a kebab does taste better after a couple of pints of good ale – much like a Chateaubriand steak tastes better with a nicely aged Cabernet Sauvignon. Which was my excuse for finding myself at one of Oxford’s finest nocturnal eateries – Hussain’s.

Located in a prime position at the side of the Ashmolean on St Giles, Hussain’s is a king among kebab vans – with great food served quickly and efficiently at reasonable prices, reasonably cheerfully.

On my visit there appeared to be a run on chips and cheese (£1.80). But while tempting, I craved warm flesh, so went for the tried and tested kebab.

Coming in three sizes, I found the smallest to be generous and just enough for a midnight bite. Sliced and re-fried, then served in a soft pita with a splash of chilli sauce (of course), mayo (a nice touch) and “all the salad” it was perfect.

The portion was generous and for £3 it was a bargain. Crucially it also passed the morning fat test – with no trace of the lardy residue left by lesser kebabs to exacerbate an already respectable hangover.

If I had to find fault, I would perhaps have preferred a spicier homemade sauce and maybe the inclusion of a brace of pickled chillies – though such things, like so much after midnight, can lead to regret.

If you’re catching a bus north, Hussain’s is a culinary gift. If you’re heading any other direction, it’s worth a detour... just as long as you don’t get in the queue before me.

Kebabs from £3.

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