Al Shami, Jericho, Oxford

When hunger strikes, don't mezze about

When hunger strikes, don't mezze about

First published in Food Reviews Oxford Mail: Photograph of the Author by , covering theatre and food. Call me on 01865 425366

After an evening in the company of the Bard, only a Lebanese banquet will do for Katherine MacAlister

It’s hungry work watching Shakespeare. You can work up quite an appetite witnessing all that angst and murder, wailing and beating of chests, plotting and intrigue, betrayal and egomania.

Yes, Creation’s epic production of Macbeth left us feeling rather peckish, despite the monumental slaughter taking place around us.

The trouble was, by the time they had all finished each other off it was 10pm, ruling out most restaurants. Where to go? The car knew as it meandered from Lady Margaret Hall over to Jericho, up Little Clarendon Street, parking itself right outside Al Shami on Walton Crescent where it has resided since 1988, and the perfect antidote to all the grim darkness of the Bard’s famous tragedy, with its simple white interior.

Al Shami is one of my little black book entries and where I go when all else fails, my failsafe, reliable, delicious, unpretentious little backstreet favourite, open from noon to midnight every day, and where I have returned time and time again over the years, dragging visitors and friends with me whenever I get the chance.

This time it was my mother’s turn and I knew she’d love the meze style cuisine and its fresh, rich, exciting collection of dishes. As she’d never been before she asked me to order and I did; the little nuggets of cauliflower served with tahini, the moist green tabbouluh, the creamy aubergine moutable, the salty halloumi in pitta and the soft fava beans in a piquant lemon dressing, with a small glass of Lebanese white wine.

The sharp witted among you will note that all these were starters but to my mind this is the best way to eat Lebanese food. Ordering several small meze dishes is far preferable to the English way of choosing a starter and a main course.

But first up the obligatory silver platter of complimentary fresh vegetables and pickles, olives and chillies which you munch through to assuage your hunger while feeling ridiculously virtuous at the same time.

Then choose from the cold meze and hot meze sections which have a plentiful supply of offerings, and while I could eat them all, six dishes between two people is more than adequate, with the prices ranging from £2.75 up to £4.80 per dish. While predominantly vegetarian, the meat and fish options stretch from spicy chicken wings to whitebait. Choosing what to have though is much harder.

We finally settled on the zahra maqlia – fried cauliflower topped with sesame oil, parsley, garlic and lemon juice (£3.50), the foul medammas – boiled fava beans in lemon juice, olive oil and garlic (£3.20), the batat harra potatoes fried in olive oil, coriander, chilli and garlic (£3.20), the kellage halloum – grilled hallomi cheese in pitta bread (£4.80), the moutable – pureed baked aubergines with sesame oil, lemon juice and garlic (£3.50), and the tabbouleh with parsley, tomatoes, onions, mint, crushed wheat, lemon juice and olive oil (£3.90), and while you may have eaten good imitations of these dishes in the past, this is the real deal; simple, delicious and bursting with flavour.

So we dined in much more splendour than the ancient king we’d witnessed; chatting, nibbling and dolling out a spoon of each dish on to our plates, which all complemented each other beautifully and all for £29, a tidy bill which Macbeth and his stringent Scottish blood would have approved of no end.

Al-Shami is open every day from noon to midnight at 25 Walton Crescent, Oxford  
01865 310066 al-shami.co.uk

  • Do you want alerts delivered straight to your phone via our WhatsApp service? Text NEWS or SPORT or NEWS AND SPORT, depending on which services you want, and your full name to 07767 417704. Save our number into your phone’s contacts as Oxford Mail WhatsApp and ensure you have WhatsApp installed.

Retro rockers Showaddywaddy are still top of the bops

Oxford Mail:

1:45pm Thursday 11th September 2014

Romeo Challenger looks back at the success of Showaddywaddy and tells Tim Hughes why the rock & roll magic goes on today

Place your bets for Mercury Prize winner...

Oxford Mail:

6:53pm Wednesday 10th September 2014

BOOKIES William Hill have listed their odds on the shortlisted artists for this year's Mercury Prize - with former Blur frontman Damon Albarn and rockers Royal Blood coming in as joint favourites.

Brunch with FoodOfTheOx

Oxford Mail:

2:00pm Thursday 11th September 2014

Brunch at Green's Cafe, Oxford

Pizzas all round help memories of tripe to fade

Oxford Mail:

1:58pm Thursday 11th September 2014

A family favourite never fails to impress and keeps the post-holiday blues at bay for Katherine MacAlister

Opening a bar has its problems and perks

Oxford Mail:

1:54pm Thursday 11th September 2014

Starting Up with Robin Bayley @ Joseph Perks & Co.

How to make mushroom, spinach and poached duck egg wellington

Oxford Mail:

1:52pm Thursday 11th September 2014

Steve Bush of The Mole & Chicken in Easington provides this week's recipe

Teen Taste at Chariots and Cherry Pie

Oxford Mail:

2:12pm Thursday 4th September 2014

Angus Henderson tries the food at an American style diner

Queuing up for feeding time with the wildlife

Oxford Mail:

2:01pm Thursday 4th September 2014

Tim Hughes has a close encounter as he tries out the canteen menu at one of the county’s top attractions

Putting the focus on art at Photography Oxford festival

Oxford Mail:

2:09pm Thursday 11th September 2014

Sarah Mayhew Craddock looks forward to the wealth of talent on offer in the Photography Oxford festival

Send us your news, pictures and videos

Most read stories

Local Info

Enter your postcode, town or place name

About cookies

We want you to enjoy your visit to our website. That's why we use cookies to enhance your experience. By staying on our website you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more about the cookies we use.

I agree