Jeremy Smith tries out an Oxford restaurant's breakfast offerings on the way to work

I normally only pass this restaurant and press my nose up against the glass. Especially in winter when it looks so warm and plush and inviting.

So it was something of a trampoline jump in cultural terms when I wandered in on Tuesday morning, about 7.30am, to try out their breakfast.

Certainly as far as the city of Oxford is concerned, it’s a destination restaurant and it’s easy to see why – swish, chic, a tad avant garde in its decor, and very, very (think Burt Bacharach) easy listening...

I instantly plumped for the classic – and in my case staple – English, while my partner fancied the eggs florentine.

Now £15 for bacon and eggs may sound excessive, but it came with a whole plate of beautifully served favourites such as black pudding and mushrooms and included toast, coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice.

It is not cheap, true, but superbly indulgent all the same.

As for the eggs florentine at £7.25, it looked good, tasted good and probably did its diner the world of good too (her soft mewing indicated my gut instinct was correct).

The service is smart but not intrusive and everything is served with a certain flair, a sort of graduation day je ne sais quoi if you know what I mean?

Indeed, just the sort of place to order a Bloody Mary and talk about the comment section of The Times (even if you ordinarily only read The Sun).

It’s an event destination and most of the staff look like catwalk models – even at 7.30am – but occasionally isn’t it just nice to feel spoiled?

We weren’t rushed and if it hadn’t been for the damned inconvenience of a salary to earn and a rent to pay, I could have stayed all morning. But like all the best things in life, the pleasure can only be fleeting.

I was out the door at 8.40am and at my desk at 9.05am, yet dammit I felt good (or at least until forward planning).

Quod, 92-94 High St, Oxford OX1 4BN. 01865 202505
Open for breakfast from 7am-11am.