Katherine MacAlister escapes from the office for a reviving riverside lunch that doesn't break the bank

Some pubs are designed to tantalise you, to make you resent going to work on these gloriously sunny days.

They taunt you with their al fresco dining, like an advert for outdoor living, complete with riverside location, happy people chatting, laughing, their white teeth glinting in the sunlight, linen crumpling in the heat, shoulders reddening, offering you a glimpse into a world where time has no meaning and deadlines are non-existent.

The Punter is one of these, put on this earth to remind us that not everyone is tied to their desks and that some do escape, emerging blinking into the daylight, heading straight for the Osney pub to recuperate with a cold beer and some decent grub before being sent back to the front line.

So one lunchtime I resolved to try my luck, rushing down to the remarkably unpretentious and unfussy interior, pausing to grab a drink and a menu before fleeing outside, determined to soak up and enjoy every last second of freedom.

The beauty of The Punter isn’t just aesthetic or lifestyle related, although it’s a damn fine excuse if you need one, because the food holds up its end of the bargain as well with a price tag to match. Yes, The Punter has made sure that everyone has an excuse to pop in, offering an unheard of £5 lunch which changes daily. Usually the domain of chain pubs which boasts a burger, chips and a pint for £4.99, The Punter has daily specials which on the day in question included crab and roasted leek risotto, a goats cheese and sweet pepper tart with leaf salad, or the chicken stir fried rice.

Whether you want a bite or a feast, it thus caters for everyone, the passer-by, the tourist, the office worker, the opportunist or the proper diners, there to make a day of it.

Despite our best intentions to sample the budget lunch, many of us fell at the first hurdle and ordered from the main menu, meaning that between us we managed to sample a good few of the dishes on offer.

You order at the bar, but our meals arrived in good time at the mish-mash of tables and chairs outside in the courtyard, meaning if you don’t have time for a leisurely lunch, there’s no cause for alarm.

Starting with the babaganoush with toasted sesame seeds, herb oil and pitta bread for £4.50, the smoky aubergine dip with the hot oily bread, was a great way to kick off our meal in the sunshine, and the fried halloumi with vine tomato, beetroot and pea shoot salad (£5.50) was perfect on a day like this; delicious, piquant and seasonal, simplicity at its best.

Most of us then opted for the £5 risotto, the unusual combination of crab and roasted leek being a winner, especially for that price. The chilli con carne, which came with tortilla chips, rice, cheese and garlic chive creme fraiche was, shock horror, all of £9, but having sampled it before, the dish’s reputation proceeded it and it lived up to expectations.

Spurning dessert we reluctantly paid up and returned to work revived, knowing that the The Punter is always ready and waiting for our return.

The Punter, 7 South Street, Osney Island, Oxford, OX2 0BE.
01865 248832 thepunteroxford.co.uk