Groaning mezze platters and succulent dishes at reasonable prices keep Tim Hughes happy at this Lebanese eaterie

A suave, suited secret agent, unfeasibly long pistol in hands gazes down from the wall – an exotic Levantine version of James Bond.

In front of us sits a groaning platter of mezze and a chilled bottle of wine from the Bekaa Valley, while all around is the buzz of animated conversation and laughter.

We could be in a cafe in the souks of Damascus or Beirut – instead we are in the heart of East Oxford.

Since opening last year, Pomegranate has been steadily pulling in fans of authentic Lebanese cuisine with fabulous food at very reasonable prices.

Owner Ahmad Mohamad tells me the cooking is actually from his native Syria – though the Lebanese tag offers familiarity and carries more cache. Either way, he insists, it’s all pretty much the same. And it is spectacular.

The highlight is, of course, the mezze – those tasty dips and nibbles which make up the starters, but which can more than happily serve as a meal in their own right.

To those unfamiliar with Middle Eastern food, the choice can be overwhelming.

Fortunately, help is at hand in the form of set individual or double mezze platters, which come in either meat or veggie.

We went for a set mezze for two (£24), promising hummus, mutabal (aubergine dip), little soujouk sausages, vine leaves, falafel, batata harrab (spicy potatoes), foul mukallah (broad beans and coriander) and chicken wings. In the interests of research I also choose calamar mekli (deep fried squid with sesame and lemon dip).

Our smiling waitress, Libby, pictured, displayed the concentration of an Olympic weightlifter as she carefully carried the heaped platter to our table.

Served with warm flat bread, it was all good. Best were the smoky mutabal, the spicy pan fried soujouk, the lightly-fried squid, and the chicken, which was marinated in lemon juice and coriander. It bursted with freshness and zest.

To Ahmad’s immense credit the wine list leans heavily towards Lebanon. With more than 5,000 years of wine making under its belt, Lebanon is one of the world’s great producing nations and its output deserves to be better known. The Lebanese town of Qana, near Tyre, is, after all, alleged by many to be the Biblical Cana, where Jesus turned water into wine.

Certainly there was nothing watery about the Chateau Ksara Blanc de Blancs – though it was a little sweet for my taste.

Feeling as stuffed as one of those juicy little vine leaves, I could have skipped the main course. Though I’m glad I didn’t.

Oxford Mail: Dipping into the tastes of the middle east at Pomegranate

Starter's orders: mezze heaven

These are a meat lover’s dream, with all manner of lamb cutlets, kaftas (minced lamb), kebabs and shawarmas. I settled on a mixed grill (£12.50) – lovely tender pieces of shish tawook (grilled chicken), shish lamb kebab and lamb kafta. It was delicious, the meat marinated in lemon juice giving it a bright tang.

More decisive, and better acquainted with the mystery of Lebanese/Syrian cuisine, the foodie ordered baked kebbeh (£8.50) – shaped minced lamb with pine nuts. It was delicious and went well with yogurt.

A Middle Eastern meal wouldn’t be complete without baklava, and we found room to messily polish off a couple of moist flaky numbers, which, we were told, had been sourced by the best supplier for miles – conveniently just up the road.

There was no coffee, though mint tea was offered. It being late though, we made do with our wine and left our little corner of the Levant, vowing to return.

Pomegranate
126 Cowley Road, Oxford
01865 241260
pomegranate-kitchen.co.uk